motor repair

[Larry3215]

The manual for our new F115 says the flushing attachment OR the muffs can be used to flush the motor. The Yamaha website also says any of three methods can be used. The third being a flush bag.

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/yamaha-a ... 9s-protect" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[hewesfisher]

The manual for our new F115 says the flushing attachment OR the muffs can be used to flush the motor. The Yamaha website also says any of three methods can be used. The third being a flush bag.

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/yamaha-a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 9s-protect

None of the three options is acceptable without the use of either a submerged lower unit or earmuffs. The last option, using flush attachment alone, without supplying water to the impeller, specifically states

What: A built-in flushing device is a hose fitting, usually located near the lower rear cowling. Do not run the engine during this procedure.

Please do yourself and your motor a favor and refer to pg 60 of your Owner's Manual (.pdf version off Yamaha's website for motor serial #'s 68V-1066827~1086256) and read the bold print Caution at the beginning of the procedure for using the flushing attachment alone.

Maintenance requirements for the F8 and T8 are the same and this info is taken directly from the Owner's Manual:

Flushing power unit
Perform this procedure right after operation for the most thorough flushing.
NOTICE
Do not perform this procedure while the engine is running. The water pump may be damaged and severe damage from overheating can result.

1. After shutting off the engine, unscrew the garden hose connector from the fitting on the bottom cowling.

2. Screw the garden hose adapter onto a garden hose, which is connected to a fresh water supply, and then connect it to
the garden hose connector.

3. With the engine off, turn on the water tap and let the water flush through the cooling passages for about 15 minutes. Turn off the water and disconnect the garden hose adapter from the garden hose connector.

4. Reinstall the garden hose connector onto the fitting on the bottom cowling. Tighten the connector securely.

NOTICE: Do not leave the garden hose connector loose on the bottom cowling fitting or let the hose hang free during normal operation. Water will leak out of the connector instead of cooling the engine which can cause serious overheating. Be sure the connector is tightened securely on the fitting after flushing the engine.

Nowhere in the 8hp owner's manual does it say it's OK to run the motor on the flushing attachment, instead, it specifically states NOT to do so.

The owner's manual also provides clear and precise instructions for storage during the off season:

Flushing in a test tank
NOTICE Before starting the engine, make sure to supply water to the cooling water passages.
Otherwise, the engine could overheat and be damaged.

1. Wash the outboard motor body using fresh water. NOTICE: Do not spray water into the air intake. For further
information, see page 52.

2. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel and add one ounce of “Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer” to each gallon of fuel.

TIP: The use of “Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer” eliminates the need to drain the fuel system. {Note: Use of fuel conditioner year round will maintain the fuel system and prevent the need for this step when storing} Consult your Yamaha dealer or other qualified mechanic if the fuel system is to be drained instead.

3. Remove the engine top cowling and silencer cover.

4. Install the outboard motor on the test tank.

5. Fill the tank with fresh water to above the level of the anti-cavitation plate.

NOTICE: If the fresh water level is below the level of the anti-cavitation plate, or if the water supply is insufficient, engine seizure may occur.

6. Cooling system flushing is essential to prevent the cooling system from clogging up with salt, sand, or dirt. In addition, fogging of the engine is mandatory to prevent excessive engine damage due to rust. Perform the flushing and fogging at the same time.

WARNING! Do not touch or remove electrical parts when starting or during operation. Keep hands, hair, and clothes away from the flywheel and other rotating parts while the engine is running.

7. Run the engine at a fast idle for 10–15 minutes in neutral position.

8. Just prior to turning off the engine, quickly spray “Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil” alternately into each carburetor or the fogging hole of the silencer cover, if equipped. When properly done, the engine will smoke excessively and almost stall.

9. Remove the outboard motor from the test tank.

10. Drain the cooling water completely out of the motor. Clean the body thoroughly.

11. Install the silencer cover/cap and top cowling.

Owner's manuals provide the consumer with the correct procedures to properly use, maintain, and store your engine all while protecting the OEM warranty. Failure to follow manufacturer's procedures for your specific motor may indeed void the warranty.

An outboard should never be run without supplying cooling water to the water pump. Doing so can destroy the rubber impeller in a matter of seconds.

[Larry3215]

Phil, I didn't intend to suggest running the motor while using the built in flushing attachment. I realize the motor needs to be OFF when using it. I suppose I should have been more clear on that

I was just trying to point out that ANY of those three options for flushing are perfectly ok to be used all alone - per Yamaha.

Flushing the motor using the flushing attachment -- with the motor off - is perfectly ok to do all by itself.

You do not need to use the muffs if you're using the flushing attachment and vice verse - as was suggested above.

Of course, you do need to do each one correctly

[hewesfisher]

Phil, I didn't intend to suggest running the motor while using the built in flushing attachment. I realize the motor needs to be OFF when using it. I suppose I should have been more clear on that

I was just trying to point out that ANY of those three options for flushing are perfectly ok to be used all alone - per Yamaha.

Flushing the motor using the flushing attachment -- with the motor off - is perfectly ok to do all by itself.

You do not need to use the muffs if you're using the flushing attachment and vice verse - as was suggested above.

Of course, you do need to do each one correctly

No worries. Any of those options is indeed correct, I just wanted to clarify the part about using the flush attachment and motor running to eliminate any possible confusion.

[sickbayer]

On my t8 I used flush mount attachment on motor with motor running no muffs

[Bodofish]

hehehehehehehe, I guess good thing it's gone.... I'm sure it wasn't a big deal and Yam was probably just covering their butts but when we did that there was water, lots of water running out all the orifices on the lower end, intake and exhaust.

[Larry3215]

oops

[sickbayer]

Yeah it did. I was sure I read it that way in my manual..heck I still have the manual when I get him Friday I'll read maybe its changed....anyways hope the OP motor turns out to be ok.

[wherearethefish]

This was an eye opener and learning experience for me. I think I took to much for granted. These newer outboards require more care than I realized. I remember my father doing mantenance on his old 10 HP Evinrude. He never took it to a shop for maintenance. He changed the sparkplug, flushed the motor after salmon fishing always and never had any issues. The main thing I was told was run the motor often. I knew I was not going out fishing anywhere last year, so I winterized the motor and it sat until 3 weeks ago when I encountered problems. The technician at Tacoma Boat Sales found salt in the carb and the thermastate was stuck open. My total bill was about $570 and warranty did not cover any work performed. Also I was told to drain the carb float bowl. Anyway it is running fine again. Now it will go into the shop at least once a year.

[ResQ]

Salt in the carb is from ethanol sucking water in. I had the same issue on my small outboard a few years ago. The new mercs do not have the hose attachment in the back so that muffs is the only option due to people not doing it correctly (so I was told). I also was told a long time ago to flush and run the gas completely out of the carbs every time. Of course I always run salt away when I flush. Whenever I need outboard stuff, I always talk to Toms outboard in Oly. Fantastic shop with reasonable rates. Hard to find these days!

[hewesfisher]

If it were my motor, and I know it isn't, I'd follow step 2 in the storage process posted above. Yamaha obviously thinks it's the right thing to do as well, or it wouldn't be in the owner's manual.

I always treat my fuel and never run my motors out of fuel. Stop and think about it, running the motor til it quits empties the bowl, but it does not make the carb bone dry. Fuel deposits are left to congeal during storage. If you stabilize your fuel, it will remain fresh for months, and you won't have fuel congealing and forming deposits to cause problems in the future. I left my kicker sit in an unheated building from mid-January until last Saturday and it fired right up without a hitch, trolled with it for 8 - 10hrs over the weekend too. Why - because I don't put a drop of fuel in my tank without stabilizer. That's my method, as recommended by my motor manufacturer, and it works. FWIW, I use ethanol enhanced fuel too - no other convenient choice where I live.

Marine Stabil at West Marine is $13.99 for a 10oz bottle. Even at the storage ratio of 1 oz to 5 gals that's only $1.39 per tank if you're using a 6gal tank. Run it year round and never look back. A lot cheaper than an annual visit to a marine mechanic.

Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer is even more economical at $.36 per ounce (Amazon.com price of $11.48 for 32oz bottle) and a ratio of 1 ounce to 3gals for in season use and even at storage dose (periods over 2 months) of 1 ounce to the gallon still cheaper than Stabil.

Here are a couple good reads direct from Yamaha:

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/sites/de ... _Flyer.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/care-and ... ce-matters" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ResQ - The bigger Mercs do indeed have a flush attachment, but my 8hp kicker does not. A barrel (what I use) or muffs handles the task.

[ResQ]

If the new ones do, then cabelas must have special ordered them without. My 2010 60 hp had one, but my 2012 8 hp and my 2013 25 hp do not. Nor does the 2013/2014 40 hp I was looking at to outfit my other new boat. I asked why and the sales guy said they did away with those as people were using them incorrectly.

[Bodofish]

If the new ones do, then cabelas must have special ordered them without. My 2010 60 hp had one, but my 2012 8 hp and my 2013 25 hp do not. Nor does the 2013/2014 40 hp I was looking at to outfit my other new boat. I asked why and the sales guy said they did away with those as people were using them incorrectly.

Anything under 25hp, manufactured by Tohatsu will not have a hose bib for flushing. It's muffs for sure.

[Hunter757]

This was an eye opener and learning experience for me. I think I took to much for granted. These newer outboards require more care than I realized. I remember my father doing mantenance on his old 10 HP Evinrude. He never took it to a shop for maintenance. He changed the sparkplug, flushed the motor after salmon fishing always and never had any issues. The main thing I was told was run the motor often. I knew I was not going out fishing anywhere last year, so I winterized the motor and it sat until 3 weeks ago when I encountered problems. The technician at Tacoma Boat Sales found salt in the carb and the thermastate was stuck open. My total bill was about $570 and warranty did not cover any work performed. Also I was told to drain the carb float bowl. Anyway it is running fine again. Now it will go into the shop at least once a year.

Glad to hear it was not a total lost and they got it fixed. I use fuel stablizer in my all my boats and non ethanol gas. I never run mine dry unless its the end of the year just drain the bowl via the screw at the bottom. But the once a year trip to the dealer would be a good one to keep it in top shape. Hope you get a chance to hit the water and catch some fish. Hope to see you on the water.

Take care,
Eric

[ResQ]

Stand corrected. Was at cabelas tonight and checked. The 40's there did have those flush ports. Nothing under did though. I can see using that as a quick way, but flushing with muffs at a later time. I never used the one on my 60 hp only a handful of times when I got back in and it was too late to run my motor, so I ran the port and then used muffs and salt away in the morning.

[hewesfisher]

I've never used the one on my 150, but neither motor will ever see salt either.