Tow Clip on the Bow... Repair?

[sleepyferret]

Hi Boaters,

I had to pull the boat up on my trailer and a little too much pressure (as in a lot) was put on the metal u-shaped bow clip that I attach my tow strap and safety chain to.

looks like it was pulled 1/8" to 1/4" away from the bow. I can see the screws that I assume attach to a bow plate on the back side.... pulled out a bit. So my question is how to fix this? I'm not sure it still has structural integrity to be safe to tow and I don't want to be unsafe!

[Amx]

Can you look inside the hull and see the ends of the bow eye/U-bolt, nuts, and such? Maybe install a thick washer under the nuts. Should be a long narrow flat 'plate' about 1/8th inch thick x 1/2" wide for a 'washer'. Maybe install a thicker and maybe wider plate. Might have to shape it to match the inside of the bow surface/angles.

[sleepyferret]

Thanks Amx! I haven't found a way to see that far up in the bow... pretty much comes up in an angled wall right in front of where my feet go! However, I'll give it another try... has to be a way!

[Jerry H]

Do you have access to a camera on a flexible arm? That may be your best option to at least see what is going on. Larger washers and or bar steel will be required to spread the stress load over as large of area as possible.

[sleepyferret]

I don't have access to that, but may be able to rig something up along those lines. Clip is still bearing load, but looks like it might've got stretched out a bit away from the fiberglass! This is a '73 Bayliner Mutiny so I think a wood/fiberglass hull.

Thanks for the advice!

[MotoBoat]

If your lucky, the two nuts that hold the bow eye tight to the hull have come loose. Allowing the bow eye to move outward, creating a gap. Otherwise, the gap likely shows a weakness in the area of the hull, where the bow eye passes through. I would think, under normal circumstances the winch strap would break before damage would occur to the boat hull, when straining like described. Even the teeth on the winch, might begin to fail by rounding out.

I picture might help tell the story.

[fishinChristian]

I'd go along with the picture idea. You can always install a yoke to strengthen the area, but you may not need that much intervention. '73? Is the wood solid? And the glass, any spiderwebbing?

[Bodofish]

Lots of them on sale on the web. You should be able to get a nice new stainless one for $10 to $20. Get a new one, make a new bigger backing plate and put it in with copious amounts of thickened epoxy. It's a Bayliner, there's probably three pieces of wood in the entire boat and the bow is not one of them. You must use epoxy, polyester resin will not stick to old cured polyester. Not to mention epoxy is a much better structural material, if you're able to sneak some glass or aramid fiber in so much the better. Makes sure you fill the holes completely, tape the holes from the front and fill from the back, make sure any voids are filled. Next re-drill the holes for the new bow eye, next glue in the new eye and backing plate and tighten up the nuts. Job done and stronger than new.

[sleepyferret]

I will get a picture and post it... really appreciate all the advice and the step by step instructions on how to repair! I believe the hull is solid, good fiberglass too. There was an awful lot of weight on that bow eye, but my first problem is getting to the back of it! Thanks to all for your comments!

[Bodofish]

I will get a picture and post it... really appreciate all the advice and the step by step instructions on how to repair! I believe the hull is solid, good fiberglass too. There was an awful lot of weight on that bow eye, but my first problem is getting to the back of it! Thanks to all for your comments!

I'm certain it's all glass, no reason for them to put any wood in there. After all wood just cost more and eats away at their bottom line. I have seen where they've used a piece of plywood for a backing plate for some moronic reason. Regardless, I know that's a very thick spot and has lots of cloth and roving along with the chop. If you can get one that looks the same, probably could just jam in and tighten it up. I tend to prefer the over doing it on any load bearing spots.

[fishinChristian]

If it is okay structurally, Bodo is right on target.

[sleepyferret]

Thanks again! My days off start on Tues. so I'll be trying to get a peek in there (or a pic) in a couple days. I'll probably do as has been suggested if I can get away with just jamming a new one in... but first things first. Now I really want to see what's backing it up!

[Jerry H]

Were you able to figure out a camera that you could see what is going on? If not, if you live in the west / south Seattle area I have a digital inspection camera with an arm about 36" long that we can take a look at it with.

[sleepyferret]

That's a really generous offer and I want to thank you for that, but I think I've got something figured out! I'll let you know how it goes. I'm on the east side and I'm hoping to fix it on Tuesday so I can take it out Wednesday! There's cutthroats out there!

[sleepyferret]

Well... the biggest problem continues to be access... I have a fiberglass angled wall under the dash that has about a 4" gap at the top into the bow, but not having success with my smartphone taking pictures... I don't have a flexible arm camera and I live on the east side so a ways away from West Seattle (thanks anyhow Jerry H!). I'm not sure how I would be able to get access to repair the back side of this bow eye anyway!

I may end up taking it to some fiberglass guys in Preston...

[Jerry H]

Without seeing it my best guess is that you will have to cut access thru the wall to make the repair. It most likely is not structural so shouldn't be a real issue. If you cut it out neatly you can put it back after the repair is complete. Is it carpeted? If so all the better. If you don't like the idea of patching the access that you or anyone that repairs it for you will have to make, you can get different types of access door covers to cover it at West Marine. Once you make access this should be a fairly easy fix. I'm sure you won't get off easy at a Glass shop. I work in Renton. Do you ever make your way down that way? If so maybe we could meet and you could get the camera to use until you get the repair done.

[sleepyferret]

Hey Jerry... I used to work in Renton, but in Seattle now with pretty weird hours. I appreciate your offer. I talked to some fiberglass shops and they were starting out around $800. I think I've come to the conclusion that I will probably need to cut access in that slanted fiberglass wall under the dash. I frankly was worried that it may affect the boat structurally so assumed I'd have to patch, but I think I'll check out those access doors at West Marine down on Northup so I can plan my cut! Thanks for the advice! Nice fish in that photo btw!

[Jerry H]

When you cut the access hole. Cut as close to the center and as small as you can. That will minimize any structural issues. I think once you get started you will find that there is really little or no structural strength added by wall. Follow Bodofish's repair process. The only thing I would add is large diamiter washers to spread the load out a bit more. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

[Jerry H]

How did the repair go?

[sleepyferret]

Thanks for asking Jerry! I ended up taking it to a fiberglass shop to have the repair done. It turned out that once you cut through the access wall under the dash there was a lot of structure still between the wall and the bow. The fiberglass guy got massively bruised up trying to get around it to repair the bow eye, but then they found there was a wood piece behind it previously and they replaced it with a metal backer.

The popular theory is that in 1973 Bayliner also made an open bow version of the Mutiny and used the same sub structure. I really don't know if that's the case, but it would explain the structure they found.