Using Downriggers, Vibration Noise

[strider43]

I have a pair of small Cannon Lake Troller down riggers that I use on a 12' aluminum boat. Some of the time when I use them there is a loud vibration, humming noise. Would this noise scare the fish away? I read on a post that someone had replaced the steel cable with braided line to get away from this noise issue. Is this a good idea? Is braid strong enough to support the cannon ball and how quickly would the braided line wear out?
I also experience an issue with my fish finder reading the depth of the cannon ball as the bottom, again this only happens sometimes. Has anyboby else had this problem and know of a solution? Thanks for your help and feedback!

[The Quadfather]

There was a pretty lengthy discussion on the forum here recently about braid vs. cable. do a search for it. You will find all the various thoughts. But for another opportunity to offer my .02 Braid is just so much nicer to deal with. Does not ever get a "Kink" in it like wire. does not hum, does not jump off the rigger.
You asked if it is strong enough... Yes, there are particular braids that are made specificly for downriggers. You aren't just using some braided line meant for a fishing real. 250 lb test is common.

[Mike Carey]

Braid is the bomb.

Once you use it you'll never consider going back. I run 14 pound lead cans and I have my GoPro attached. I trust it more than I do wire. I have had wire kink and break, come up and hit the DR arm and break, and rust and break.

Regarding the DR ball obscuring the actual depth, had that happen with my old garmin. PITA. I'll sometimes turn my unit off and back on and it works OK then.

[BentRod]

Strider,
The hum of the cable is normal. I have a 12' aluminum with a Scotty lake troll DR and the hum really can reverberate through the boat. Don't know if it effects the bite, but sure can grate on the nerves after a while. Certainly a more annoying sound than my buddies bigger DR's on his 19' fiberglass boat produce when trolling for salmon on the Sound.
I haven't switched myself, but have heard the braid will get rid of that noise along with decreasing blow back. One word of caution is the potential to get it wrapped around your prop. I've read the braid can do some real damage if it gets caught. No experience in that regard though, so just sharing what I've read.
I too have had my DR ball show up as a false bottom on the depthfinder. I've been able to fix it by futzing with the sensitivity. Can't remember if increasing or decreasing fixed it.
FWIW,
Tight lines.

[G-Man]

One other aspect of changing over to braid on your downriggers is reducing/eliminating the electrical charge that your gear will give off. It's not as evident if you are dropping back quite a bit from the clip, but if you fish close, like within 30' of the ball, it will make a big difference. The charge is caused by different metals being in close proximity to one another and having a way (water) for electricity to flow between them. I've witnessed the before and after effect first hand when fishing for sockeye in Lake Washington many years ago, it was like throwing a switch. Also, most downrigger cable is rated between 125lb and 180lbs so you don't need to get the monster braid, I run 135lb Tuffline on my two Penns and have had no problems. Buy a 300 yard spool of the stuff and you can put 450' on each rigger, more than enough and leaves you plenty in the event you snag up and have to bust/cut off a weight.

[MotoBoat]

One other aspect of changing over to braid on your downriggers is reducing/eliminating the electrical charge that your gear will give off. It's not as evident if you are dropping back quite a bit from the clip, but if you fish close, like within 30' of the ball, it will make a big difference. The charge is caused by different metals being in close proximity to one another and having a way (water) for electricity to flow between them. I've witnessed the before and after effect first hand when fishing for sockeye in Lake Washington many years ago, it was like throwing a switch. Also, most downrigger cable is rated between 125lb and 180lbs so you don't need to get the monster braid, I run 135lb Tuffline on my two Penns and have had no problems. Buy a 300 yard spool of the stuff and you can put 450' on each rigger, more than enough and leaves you plenty in the event you snag up and have to bust/cut off a weight.

G-man, you prefer Tuffline over other braids? Is it comparable in price to power pro and others? What is the rubber snubber/bungee type deal for when used between cable and lead ball? Is that to help with the electrical charge caused between cable and lead ball? Or for snagging the lead ball on the bottom?

[G-Man]

I like using Tuffline as it is typically less expensive than other braids and of equal or better quality, plus it is made in the good ole USA. As for the rubber snubber between the line and the ball, I've heard people claim both reasons you mentioned but I have not been able to validate either one. I do have one and found that it interferes with a weight retrieval system and depending upon how much it stretches, can cause your rod tip to bob something fierce when you encounter waves. 99% of the time I connect the end of my line and my downrigger clip, directly to the weight.

[strider43]

Thanks for the feedback. Does the electrical charge you mentioned have anything to do with my fishfinder reading the cannonball as the bottom? What negative effects are from the electrical charge? Thanks for all the advice, I will be switching to a braid product.

[hewesfisher]

I like using Tuffline as it is typically less expensive than other braids and of equal or better quality, plus it is made in the good ole USA. As for the rubber snubber between the line and the ball, I've heard people claim both reasons you mentioned but I have not been able to validate either one. I do have one and found that it interferes with a weight retrieval system and depending upon how much it stretches, can cause your rod tip to bob something fierce when you encounter waves. 99% of the time I connect the end of my line and my downrigger clip, directly to the weight.

Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip. I bought a 300yd spool of 200lb test Tuf-Line to respool my riggers. I just haven't gotten around to respooling yet since I don't use them that often.

[MotoBoat]

I like using Tuffline as it is typically less expensive than other braids and of equal or better quality, plus it is made in the good ole USA. As for the rubber snubber between the line and the ball, I've heard people claim both reasons you mentioned but I have not been able to validate either one. I do have one and found that it interferes with a weight retrieval system and depending upon how much it stretches, can cause your rod tip to bob something fierce when you encounter waves. 99% of the time I connect the end of my line and my downrigger clip, directly to the weight.

Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip. I bought a 300yd spool of 200lb test Tuf-Line to respool my riggers. I just haven't gotten around to respooling yet since I don't use them that often.
Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip.

Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip.

Hews, you must have reversed what you meant to say? Connecting "weights directly to the DR clip!" that would be weird, and take one heck of a clip.....Ha! Plus, I guess that leaves the DR ball tied to your fishing line. If that happens to be a "old Lake Roosevelt trick" and your just sharing it now, after ample R^& D to confirm the effectiveness of connecting weights to the clip. Then appreciate the sharing..........Just funnin, home sick today.

[MotoBoat]

G-man, what makes tuf-line a better product than other braided lines?

Stryder, your definitely switching over to braid?

What causes the DR cable hummmmmmmm? I have not had that happen in lakes. Only out in the sound. Thought the hummm to be a combination of boat speed, current, depth, and wind. Creating enough cable resistance to vibrate?

I bought stainless cable in bulk. Several years ago. Now you've made the dilemma of switch over to braid. A bit more difficult!

On a different subject. I had raised the possibility on anther website, some time ago. That, if your DR originally came with wire. The counter is calibrated for that.

Now, loading a much thinner braid onto you DR, could significantly affect what the counter reads, vs actual fishing depth. Just like blow back does. Thinking this point through. Braid, having less blow back due to less resistance, because of it's thinner diameter. Might benefit the line counter calibration issue, through less blow back!

Whatever space say, 200ft of cable takes on the DR spool. Potentially, it would take a significantly larger amount of a thinner "braid" to equal that same space. Another way of comparing, on a much smaller scale, would be: How much more braid of equal "lb test" can be loaded on your fishing reel, than if spooled with mono?

I suppose, having the ability to "see" the lead ball on the Fish Finder would remedy this. But, thought this worthy of discussion. Since not everyone has a FF with that ability. Much less, use a FF in there smaller 12ft size boat.

[zen leecher]

From reading G-Man's post I suspect price was what made him select tuffline. Price out some appropriate sized superbraid for downriggers and see if you come to a similar assumption.

I used tuffline on a bottomfishing rig and it handled the same as other superbraid.

[MotoBoat]

Price and few other important factors:

G-man,
"Tuffline is typically less expensive"
"Of equal or better quality"
"Made in the good ole USA"

I get the feeling there is a educated, fact gathering mission. Influencing every G-man purchase. His knowledge of all things fishing related, indicate as such.

Can I get a Amen!

[gfakkema]

...

[strider43]

MotoBoat
I am seriously considering it. Now that you have brought up the line counter issue though that will require some thought.
The counter on my little lake trollers often stick and are not accurate so I use the one turn per foot method.......how do the rest of you count your depth when switching over to braid?

[BentRod]

MotoBoat
I am seriously considering it. Now that you have brought up the line counter issue though that will require some thought.
The counter on my little lake trollers often stick and are not accurate so I use the one turn per foot method.......how do the rest of you count your depth when switching over to braid?

Since my DR is a clamp on, I figure out where to hook it up, so that my depth finder picks up the ball. That is how I tell how deep it is for sure. If for some reason I'm having problems picking up the ball the finder, I'll just count the number of turns of the wheel. My little Scotty DR does not have a line counter on it, so the feet/turn is the recommended method anyway. However, the depth finder is much more accurate.

[MotoBoat]

MotoBoat
I am seriously considering it. Now that you have brought up the line counter issue though that will require some thought.
The counter on my little lake trollers often stick and are not accurate so I use the one turn per foot method.......how do the rest of you count your depth when switching over to braid?

I just don't know how much of a difference there would be at fishing 50ft or less in a lake. As compared to Salmon fishing at 100ft or more. A guy with a dr line counter calibrated for cable, using braid, and a fish finder able to track the dr ball would have a better idea. Of course, it would be best if the boat was not moving. Then you could compare FF reading to dr counter reading, with the braid straight down. Eliminating the variable of blow back!

The deeper the fishing, the greater the inaccuracy. If you were fishing lakers, always hugging the bottom. I suppose constantly bouncing the bottom, to stay close to the bottom. Would render what the line counter said, whether accurate or not, less to no importance.

For you, it is as simple as measuring one revolution of braid coming off your dr. If it were me I would lay a 25 or 30ft tape measure out on the lawn or driveway, start the tape even to the end of the dr boom. Count handle turns on your dr as you pull line from it. Write down the handle turns that equate to what the tape measure say's. It could be at any interval you choose. I would think 10ft intervals being close enough.

Once you reach the end of your tape. Set the braid end down. Move the end of the tape to the end of your braid. That would reset to an additional 25 or whatever length tape your using. Effectively giving you equivalent handle turns to exact depths of 50ft or more. Depending on how many times the tape is reset

The only reason I would lay out a tape measure. Is, the first revolution of measured line, is not the same as the 50th. The line spool diameter on the dr, is decreasing with every handle turn. The first 10ft of line, would require less handle turns than the second, third and so on. Again, how much I do not know. Could be a couple or more handle turns at 50ft.

You could compare by measuring handle turns with the tape measure, with your dr spooled with cable before replacing with braid.......and report back with your scientific finding. Heck, get the kids involved............LOL!

Oh, don't forget to start counting handle turns, once the ball is at the surface of the water!

[Racer]

I talked to a Scotty rep awhile back on the counter issue. What I was told is that up to about 300' the line counter will still be accurate. Above that it will start losing about 10% on the depth.

[G-Man]

Price and few other important factors:

G-man,
"Tuffline is typically less expensive"
"Of equal or better quality"
"Made in the good ole USA"

I get the feeling there is a educated, fact gathering mission. Influencing every G-man purchase. His knowledge of all things fishing related, indicate as such.

Can I get a Amen!

Motoboat - Too funny, my educated, fact gathering missions drive my wife to tears at times. I like to know/feel that I've bought the best product for the job or at least the best product for what I'm willing to pay. The first and last statements are pretty easy to verify. Tuffline is made in the USA by Western Filament and a quick comparison by spool size and rating will show that they undercut their popular competition in price. The equal or better quality statement comes from my having used several different brands of the so called superlines. The two that rose to the top of the heap were Power Pro and Tuffline XP. Both are excellent products but as I'm frugal and patriotic,the Tuffline product gets my endorsement.

My Penn's are nearly spot on as far as reading the correct depth so I don't think that installing braid will change the accuracy of the counter on the downrigger. There are easy ways to determine the accuracy of the counter. One is to measure out 25' of line with a tape measure and see what you're reading on the counter. The other is to bottom out the rigger while stationary on a lake and check it against your sonar reading. If you find that you are off by a foot or so, don't sweat it.

[strider43]

The problem that I have is when my FF reads the ball that is all it reads, it thinks that its the bottom of the lake. Part of that problem is that it is very cheap $100.00 set up, no sensitivity adjustment. I thinks checking how many cranks of the handle to the actual footage pulled out in my lawn.............