No kidding! This info is great! I have never "really" fished for walleye. I have tried, caught a few perch is all. Thank you all for the gobs of info you have been sharing! I hope this post continues to grow with more information!blufin loui wrote:Not beating a dead horse at all. Great info, and thanks for your willingness to take the time and effort to share with those of us that are less experienced. As time passes, I may (will) ask more detailed questions as I get more time on the water. Once again, your assistance is appreciated.Anglinarcher wrote:OK, I know I'm beating a dead horse, but let's try to wrap this up. Let's talk lure/bait presentations.
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BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
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- sellis_414
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RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
"If I'm not back in five minutes... just wait longer."
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- sellis_414
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RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
For a complete beginner what would be an "any time of day/go-to" rigging of choice? Bottom bouncer with a wedding ring? (Again bear with me... I know very little)
I seriously am enjoing this knowledge you all are sharing...
I most likely wouldn't be the type that would make lures. Are there better brands than others? And what would be a good starter kit?
I seriously am enjoing this knowledge you all are sharing...
I most likely wouldn't be the type that would make lures. Are there better brands than others? And what would be a good starter kit?
"If I'm not back in five minutes... just wait longer."
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- lonnie197272
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- Location: Moses Lake, WA
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Sellis, from what I have found a great go to spinner especially for beginners is a double whammy. Basically a wedding ring spinner with two hooks. I would buy one in chartruse/silver and one in red/copper. Run that behind a bottom bouncer getting the feel for the bottom. Like AA said only ticking the bottom once in a while if your feeling a constant thump on the line then your probably dragging bottom. Northland tackle and Yakima baits make some great walleye rigs as well.
One thing that wasnt touched on to much was the feel of the bite. Alot of beginners to bottom bouncers have a hard time feeling the bite. It can get confusing as to what is a bite or just dragging bottom. There are times where walleye will just come up and hang on to the crawler and all you feel is mushy weight, moving the rod forward just a tad can give you the indication whether its a fish or bottom. When moving it forward dont pull quickly because usually the walleye only has the crawler and it will bite off and let go. Just a small movement forward to feel if the weight moves with the rig, if so then drop back quickly letting the walleye ingulf the bait then a sweeping motion forward will usually set the hook.
Other times walleye will come up and just run with it those are easy because its just sweeping forward and your good to go. Now the other is the quick tick of the line which happens quite often and to a beginner feels alot like your ticking the bottom. When this happens drop the rod back a few feet and hold feeling for additional ticks or weight. Once its there use the same sweeping motion to set the hook. Even if you miss the fish the first time drop back again, I dont know how many times I have missed on the first try but the walleye willl come back to finish the job.
When in doubt drop back and sweep it cant hurt to set the hook on the bottom because they are easy to get lose. Better to set and hook then ignore what you think is the bottom and miss a big walleye.
Now onto getting snags lose. Once you set the hook or just pull into a snag quickly lift the rod straight up with a quick tug usually that will free the bouncer. Because unless your dragging bottom with the spinner usually its the bouncer that snags. If the first quick lift and tug doesnt free the weight you can either pull a 180 while letting line out as to not pull the weight further into the snag. Go back to where you are directly over the snag and lift and drop the rod, you can usually free it fairly easy this way. The other thing to feel for is whether the weight is lifting and dropping thru this motion if it is then that usually means the spinner is dragging and snagging which means you need to adjust the floats or how much line your letting out.
The other method that I use alot is to shut the electric motor off start up the big motor and just hit reverse. This works great if your around alot of other boats because it keeps you in line and wont interfere with the other boats when you make your turn plus its alot faster. This only works good if your in fairly calm water and deeper than 10 feet as to not spook fish and not having water coming over the back of your boat from waves due to wind.
One thing that wasnt touched on to much was the feel of the bite. Alot of beginners to bottom bouncers have a hard time feeling the bite. It can get confusing as to what is a bite or just dragging bottom. There are times where walleye will just come up and hang on to the crawler and all you feel is mushy weight, moving the rod forward just a tad can give you the indication whether its a fish or bottom. When moving it forward dont pull quickly because usually the walleye only has the crawler and it will bite off and let go. Just a small movement forward to feel if the weight moves with the rig, if so then drop back quickly letting the walleye ingulf the bait then a sweeping motion forward will usually set the hook.
Other times walleye will come up and just run with it those are easy because its just sweeping forward and your good to go. Now the other is the quick tick of the line which happens quite often and to a beginner feels alot like your ticking the bottom. When this happens drop the rod back a few feet and hold feeling for additional ticks or weight. Once its there use the same sweeping motion to set the hook. Even if you miss the fish the first time drop back again, I dont know how many times I have missed on the first try but the walleye willl come back to finish the job.
When in doubt drop back and sweep it cant hurt to set the hook on the bottom because they are easy to get lose. Better to set and hook then ignore what you think is the bottom and miss a big walleye.
Now onto getting snags lose. Once you set the hook or just pull into a snag quickly lift the rod straight up with a quick tug usually that will free the bouncer. Because unless your dragging bottom with the spinner usually its the bouncer that snags. If the first quick lift and tug doesnt free the weight you can either pull a 180 while letting line out as to not pull the weight further into the snag. Go back to where you are directly over the snag and lift and drop the rod, you can usually free it fairly easy this way. The other thing to feel for is whether the weight is lifting and dropping thru this motion if it is then that usually means the spinner is dragging and snagging which means you need to adjust the floats or how much line your letting out.
The other method that I use alot is to shut the electric motor off start up the big motor and just hit reverse. This works great if your around alot of other boats because it keeps you in line and wont interfere with the other boats when you make your turn plus its alot faster. This only works good if your in fairly calm water and deeper than 10 feet as to not spook fish and not having water coming over the back of your boat from waves due to wind.
- Anglinarcher
- Admiral
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- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 1:28 pm
- Location: Eastern Washington
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
lonnie has some great points, none of which I find any fault with.sellis_414 wrote:For a complete beginner what would be an "any time of day/go-to" rigging of choice? Bottom bouncer with a wedding ring? (Again bear with me... I know very little)
I seriously am enjoing this knowledge you all are sharing...
I most likely wouldn't be the type that would make lures. Are there better brands than others? And what would be a good starter kit?
Now, as for time of day, well I prefer early in the day, from o-dark:30 to say 10:00 am, then late in the day, say the last hour and a half. If I had to put fish in the boat, and could not fish all day, then morning first, evening second. I cannot think of a reason to not fish all day, but the middle of the day can be slow. Fishing at night can be a bit troubling, but if you have good electronics and know your water, night can be the hottest time.
I have included some links that you can copy into your browser to view the common spinner rig. They are so easy to make it just don't really make since to pay this kind of money. Nevertheless, anything that looks like these will work.
At Roosevelt, I would propose something that suggest a perch or a small rainbow trout. Sculpin work, but I find that this is more of a seasonal thing. There is a huge population of Chisel Mouth starting to develop, so silver and black is starting to work, but ....... Stickleback minnows are also prevalent, but by nature they are very small. I suspect that when the fishing is tough that downsizing to suggest these guys will help.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/ ... _104200380
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/ ... _104200380
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/ ... _104200380
Too much water, so many fish, too little time.
- blufin loui
- Lieutenant
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- Location: Chelan
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
This thread is way cool. Thanks lonnie for the input, all the info is gonna be put to good use. A big THANKS for all you guys willing to contribute to this continuing wealth (to some of us) of information. Keep em coming
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Thanks for all the useful information, looking forward to trying it out next summer.
When you hook several fishing in an area, is it a good idea to turn around and work the same area again?
When you hook several fishing in an area, is it a good idea to turn around and work the same area again?
- lonnie197272
- Warrant Officer
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- Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:30 am
- Location: Moses Lake, WA
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Kfedka, When you hit several fish in an area pay close attention to your electronics and the shoreline. Look for depressions or humps, a difference in bottom composition ( sand to gravel/ gravel to chunk rock / mud to hard bottom) all this will tell the story of where the walleye are. To answer your question yes definatley. By doing so you may be able to pull several fish from a 100 yd section by trolling back and forth.
My tactics are a bit different, if I am on a troll and hit several fish from a small area I put down the trolling gear and pick up my jigging/crankbait rod. The fish are there for a reason. By jigging/crankbait I can cover the water in that small area much more Thoroughly. By watching my electronics and shoreline when I find this spot on the spot it may only be a 10' radius so trolling back and forth may not be the most effecient way to fish it. I know that this is kind of off the main subject but it really can produce great results. Many times I will hit a fish immediatley see structure on the sonar and mark it with my GPS or bouy. Turn around work the area for 15 min with jig/crankbait and pick up several fish. After a few casts without a hit I will continue on with my troll til I hit another spot similar to the first.
With that being said just because you pick up a fish trolling that doesnt mean you should do this everytime. I would only recommend this if you see structure or change in bottom. Otherwise continue trolling until you pick up several fish within say a 100 to 200 yd stretch then turn around and go back thru.
My tactics are a bit different, if I am on a troll and hit several fish from a small area I put down the trolling gear and pick up my jigging/crankbait rod. The fish are there for a reason. By jigging/crankbait I can cover the water in that small area much more Thoroughly. By watching my electronics and shoreline when I find this spot on the spot it may only be a 10' radius so trolling back and forth may not be the most effecient way to fish it. I know that this is kind of off the main subject but it really can produce great results. Many times I will hit a fish immediatley see structure on the sonar and mark it with my GPS or bouy. Turn around work the area for 15 min with jig/crankbait and pick up several fish. After a few casts without a hit I will continue on with my troll til I hit another spot similar to the first.
With that being said just because you pick up a fish trolling that doesnt mean you should do this everytime. I would only recommend this if you see structure or change in bottom. Otherwise continue trolling until you pick up several fish within say a 100 to 200 yd stretch then turn around and go back thru.
- Anglinarcher
- Admiral
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- Location: Eastern Washington
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
I agree lonnie, note that I mentioned that bottom bouncers are great for scattered fish. They are also great for locating fish, but they are not the only way, nor are they the best way, to catch Walleye.
I have marker buoys that I can toss out if I see what looks like a school, or some extra special structure. My GPS/fish finder is super high end, but it still is only accurate to about 20 feet on most days. 20 feet can be as bad as 20 miles if the fish are in a negative or neutral mood.
So, I normally have a "milk run" that I troll looking for Walleye. Then, if I am just picking up scattered fish I may go back and forth for some time. On the other hand, if I believe there is a school or special structure, I will toss Crankbaits, jigs, bottom walker sinkers, even drop shot.
Last August I found a spot on Roosevelt that had fish stacked pretty heavy. We located them trolling, but when three of you have a fish on at the same time, it is time to toss the markers. We fished that spot with Jigs and caught and released over 50 fish in 8 hours, ranging from 14" to 24". One of the guys was a walleye newbie, but no longer.
I have marker buoys that I can toss out if I see what looks like a school, or some extra special structure. My GPS/fish finder is super high end, but it still is only accurate to about 20 feet on most days. 20 feet can be as bad as 20 miles if the fish are in a negative or neutral mood.
So, I normally have a "milk run" that I troll looking for Walleye. Then, if I am just picking up scattered fish I may go back and forth for some time. On the other hand, if I believe there is a school or special structure, I will toss Crankbaits, jigs, bottom walker sinkers, even drop shot.
Last August I found a spot on Roosevelt that had fish stacked pretty heavy. We located them trolling, but when three of you have a fish on at the same time, it is time to toss the markers. We fished that spot with Jigs and caught and released over 50 fish in 8 hours, ranging from 14" to 24". One of the guys was a walleye newbie, but no longer.
Too much water, so many fish, too little time.
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
In Washington state since we cannot use live minnows or leaches the bottom bouncer with a double hook spinner and worm is probably the easiest rig to use, (Dons Dandy Walleye Rig) is a guide made time proven Walleye fetcher, or new to the scene is the Banks Bonker. The biggest mistake guys make in running a bottom walker rig is they almost always use too heavy of a walker, thus destroying your ability to feel the bite. My personal opinion and experience is that 1oz is as heavy as one needs unless your trolling too fast and into the current on the Columbia, there 2 oz would hardly help. I always start with 1/2oz and fish it as long as it will keep the presentation in the strike zone (within 18" of bottom). The sweeping motion that was mentioned earlier is necessesary here in Washington because of the snaggy bottom. You should ALWAYS inflate your worm, not to is misssing more than half your opportunities at a fish! An inflated worm keeps your presentation right in the eyes face. If the wind is blowing, DRIFT shut your troll motor down, drifting will produce more fish than trolling, the so called "Walleye Chop" is a 2-7mph wind and Walleye love wind, the wind stimulates the walleye into feeding. Pay attention to your choice of line, way too many fishermen have no clue as to how much difference there is in lines. If your fishing much over 25' which is almost always for Walleye here, then you need a line that does not stretch and will telegraph the bite soooo much better than whimpy limpy line which gives you that "mushy" gee I think thats a bite feeling... Also your rod is of utmost importance, don't go cheap, you deserve better. You want a sensative tip but lots of backbone with a moderate amount of whip, 6' is about as long as you need to go. Last, don't try to set a worlds record as to how long you can fish that dead worm, worms are cheap, change often. Klahowya!
- goodtimesfishing
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RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
This has been a great thread, I have not fished for walleye but sure want to now. Great job everyone with the information and such. Would be great to see another thread like this one but on steelhead.
- Anglinarcher
- Admiral
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RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
I have always said that if you can catch steelhead you can catch walleye, but I'm not sure about the other way around.
Try asking about a specific Steelhead technique and let's see what we can do.
Try asking about a specific Steelhead technique and let's see what we can do.
Too much water, so many fish, too little time.
- blufin loui
- Lieutenant
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- Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:38 pm
- Location: Chelan
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Thanks to everyone who was willing to share some of their techniques. After reading all the input, I can say my understanding of the technique has grown significantly. Went out Dec 9th, and could tell I was more effecient at keeping the bait in the zone, and was able to detect bites, and be able to distinguish the different feel from the bottom and a fish (most of the time anyway). So now all I gotta do is keep putting to good use all the great info shared here. My time will come to put eyes in the boat, and all you guys has had a hand in making me a better or at least more informed fisherman. LOL
Thanks again, and everyone have a great Holiday Season.
Thanks again, and everyone have a great Holiday Season.
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Like others have said, just keep the slack on the line limited or you'll get snagged up. This has happened to me sometimes while not listening to my dad when I was younger LOL. Always tend to use about a 3 foot leader when rigging up a spinner with the bottom bouncer too. I like to only use bottom walkers on the sandier hump type structures. On the rocky areas like in Potholes I stray away from using it because if you get snagged you'll most likely lose your stuff, so I tend to use cranks in those areas because I've noticed I've gotten more bites using them in rocky areas and they're easier to get off.
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
This has been a great discussion, and as a wannabe walleye fisherman I have learned a lot. One more question. I visit the Chelan area fairly frequently, and have wanted to try the Columbia for walleye. With river current, is the bottom bouncer still a good way to find fish? Would you drift downstream, or troll upstream? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks to all for all the great info.
Thanks to all for all the great info.
- lonnie197272
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RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
jbbball, the reason for using bottom bouncers is just for that reason. It allows you to fish very rocky snaggy bottoms with confidence (if used right) to not get snagged. The wire that hangs below the weight is your guide to how the bottom feels. If your using this technique by keeping your line at a 45 degree angle from the boat with the right amount of line out just ticking the bottom every so often you shouldnt be getting snagged. Refer to earlier posts for this and getting the snags loose if you do.
Burlee, yes this is a great way to find fish even on the river. You can troll upstream against the current. Keep your speed so that again the line is in the water at a 45 degree angle. Depending on how much current and depth you will have to play with the amount of weight your using. Once you find a few fish in a close proximity then I would put down the trolling rod and pick up my jigging stick. Work the area by either vertical or pitching jigs.
If your moving with the current I would use a jig with enough weight to keep it as vertical as possible and drift this with a drop, lift and pause motion. Tip your jig with a piece of crawler or some gulp leeches. Very deadly!
Burlee, yes this is a great way to find fish even on the river. You can troll upstream against the current. Keep your speed so that again the line is in the water at a 45 degree angle. Depending on how much current and depth you will have to play with the amount of weight your using. Once you find a few fish in a close proximity then I would put down the trolling rod and pick up my jigging stick. Work the area by either vertical or pitching jigs.
If your moving with the current I would use a jig with enough weight to keep it as vertical as possible and drift this with a drop, lift and pause motion. Tip your jig with a piece of crawler or some gulp leeches. Very deadly!
- Anglinarcher
- Admiral
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- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 1:28 pm
- Location: Eastern Washington
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Burlee, bottom bouncers work everywhere. Current may take a little more skill, but bottom bouncers are a great way to fish current. My advice is to never fish a piece of current without fishing first down stream, then up stream.
I have had days where fishing up current would not take a single fish, but I'd turn around and hammer them rascals. I have never had a day where they would hit ONLY when I was trolling up stream, but I have had a lot of days when they were active and would hit both directions.
I have had days where fishing up current would not take a single fish, but I'd turn around and hammer them rascals. I have never had a day where they would hit ONLY when I was trolling up stream, but I have had a lot of days when they were active and would hit both directions.
Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Too much water, so many fish, too little time.
- goodtimesfishing
- Captain
- Posts: 641
- Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:33 am
- Location: Arlington
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
I am fishing with float and jig, not a difficult set up. I think that with steelhead the hardest part is finding them. I just thought that with all that great info on walleye that I am sure there would also be something to learn about steelhead. Not trying to change the topic, but when we run out of things to say about walleye. I enjoy hearing all the techniques people have.Anglinarcher wrote:I have always said that if you can catch steelhead you can catch walleye, but I'm not sure about the other way around.
Try asking about a specific Steelhead technique and let's see what we can do.
- Anglinarcher
- Admiral
- Posts: 1831
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 1:28 pm
- Location: Eastern Washington
RE:BAFFLED by BOTTOM BOUNCERS
Not a problem, but so that we don't hijack the thread, post a specific question in the River forum. There are a lot of good metalhead guys on AT.goodtimesfishing wrote:I am fishing with float and jig, not a difficult set up. I think that with steelhead the hardest part is finding them. I just thought that with all that great info on walleye that I am sure there would also be something to learn about steelhead. Not trying to change the topic, but when we run out of things to say about walleye. I enjoy hearing all the techniques people have.Anglinarcher wrote:I have always said that if you can catch steelhead you can catch walleye, but I'm not sure about the other way around.
Try asking about a specific Steelhead technique and let's see what we can do.
Too much water, so many fish, too little time.