Northwest Fishing Reports

I recently bought a 1980 Glasply 17' outboard and I fixing some things on it. The seal is missing od the hinged part of the step through windshield. I've been looking locally and can't find what I'm looking for. I even looked on line without much luck. Any ideas?

Can you post a picture of where it needs to go?

how?

how?

I found it!

So is that like a track or groove the seal slides or locks into?

If so, your best bet is probably a trip to the local HomeDepot and/or Ace hardware so you can go through their weather seal section. You might get lucky and find one that will work. You will want to pay attention to how big the gap is when the window is closed so you dont get one thats too thick.

GlassPly are of course long gone so you can't ask them where they got the stuff from.

Another longshot might be to hit up some boat repair shops/dealers that have parts departments and ask them for suggestions.

I think you might have a good chance at Ace though.

Good luck!

It looks like to me, that the seal should go into the groove as a attach point. And I looked at Lowes to no avail. nothing looked like it would work.

Might try a glass shop.

Lots of used, surplus boat parts guys on ebay, I've gotten all sorts of extruded seals from there. You could also try fisheries supply, McClendon's, the list goes on.

I realize there are lots of folks that have trouble with searches, so:
Big daddy of them all Mcmasters Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#
These guys have just a small selection on their web site, call and ask; https://pacificpowertraininc.com/collections/trim
and http://greatlakesskipper.com/boat-parts ... ck-molding
and of course; http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rubber+boat+trim

I have just given you the most important links there are for fixing or building anything but your boat is a start.

Thanks for the links. I did not see any thing that will work.

18ftTrophy wrote:Thanks for the links. I did not see any thing that will work.

Look deeper at McMasters, I'm sure they have a bubble seal with a bit that slides into the track and give Pacific powertrain a call. I'm sure the trick is the right sized bubble. McMasters is not easy, they have almost everything in the world, just need to dig.

I spent a lot of time in McMasters and found nothing. Spent hours over the weekend on line looking at anything I could find, with only one possible match to what I think could work at Netherland rubber co. A rubber extrusion Id# N6E-011421 that is a special order. They had no samples because it's a special order and comes in 250' pre box. I'm still looking!!!

Here is a way to make your own custom gasket. I have done this many times on model airplanes and it works very well if you are a little careful.

You will need some exterior silicone caulk - clear would be my choice, but any color would work. I would pay extra for the good stuff. You will also need some clear Reynolds Wrap and maybe some painters masking tape.

The idea is to fill the groove side with silicon to just far enough above the level of the groove to form the gasket plus a tiny bit extra. Be sure the silicone squeezes down into the groove enough to get a good lock. Dont worry about having it super smooth or even, but get it as uniform as possible. Tape off the area beyond where the groove is - the silicone is going to squeeze out so be mindful of where it might go and cover with tape or Reynolds wrap.

You cover the closure side (the side with no groove) with one layer of the Reynolds Wrap. Be sure it is tight with as few wrinkles as possible. You will also want to cover anything in the immediate area that you dont want stuck to the silicone with painters tape or more Reynolds Wrap.

Remember any excess silicone is going to go somewhere.....

Now just close the window and wait till tomorrow. You want at least a 24 hour cure.

When you open the window - if you are lucky - the Reynolds Wrap will peal off the silicone easily and you will be left with a gasket that fits perfectly. You may need to trim the silicone where it squeezed out at the edges if you used too much or just to make it neater looking. If you used too little, you may need to repeat the process to fill it the low spots.

If the Reynolds Wrap sticks to the silicone, just trim the edges carefully with a razor blade and it will be invisible. You can also try to use some sort of wax on the Reynolds Wrap first, but you should do a test first. Some waxes keep the silicone from hardening properly. You also run the risk of it pealing of in some places and not in others. It looks better to just leave it on and trim the sides in my opinion.

Good luck!

P.S. If you were not careful, you may need to work at removing excess silicone from places you didnt want it to go

If you recall, I said it wasn't easy. How about if I hand it to you on a plate. I see several here that would probably work.
Keep looking, they have everything and at a retail level, no special order.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#d-seals/=11c9jjv

I really did see those, and they are not what I'm looking for. I don't want self achieve seals, they never stay in place.

18ftTrophy wrote:I really did see those, and they are not what I'm looking for. I don't want self achieve seals, they never stay in place.

If they have adhesive, leave the covering on and slide them into place after you bend the corner back out.
Not all of them are adhesive backed, only the soft foam ones.
Those are but a small sample of what is offered.

Hi! I have been following this for a little bit and I think I know what you can do to seal the walk through window.
I have worked in the boating industry for over 18 years. I've worked for Bayliner, Glas Ply, Olympic Boats, and a number
of very small companies. Virtually all these boat companies (Glas Ply included) did not use an insert in the track
pictured in the photos you posted. What we used was a closed cell foam tape with adhesive on one side. The tapes
were usually purchased in 25 to 50 ft rolls or came from the manufacturer with the window. You can purchase smaller
rolls of this kind of foam tape at most any hardware store. Just make sure the tape is the proper width to fit the base
of the window and that it is the right thickness. Clean the base with alcohol, make sure the surface is dry, apply the
foam tape, starting on the end that has the hinge and slowly apply the tape across the bottom, pressing the tape
firmly as you go, (make sure the metal is warm,not hot, so the adhesive will stick). When reaching the end just trim the tape flush with the end of the frame and your done! It's true that some of these windows can come with these special
inserts, but most manufacturers just use this foam tape. It was cheaper to use.

This the first time for to comment on anything here, but I just had to say something this time. I don't really get out any
more because of my health, but always enjoy reading all the comments and experiences. Anyway, I hope this helps.
At least my time in the boating industry will good for something!

I would try your local truck canopy shop, that looks very close to the rear door seal. Worth a shot your never going to find perfect but the rear door seal all slide in a pocket like your showing. Good luck hope you find something.

scott56 wrote:Hi! I have been following this for a little bit and I think I know what you can do to seal the walk through window.
I have worked in the boating industry for over 18 years. I've worked for Bayliner, Glas Ply, Olympic Boats, and a number
of very small companies. Virtually all these boat companies (Glas Ply included) did not use an insert in the track
pictured in the photos you posted. What we used was a closed cell foam tape with adhesive on one side. The tapes
were usually purchased in 25 to 50 ft rolls or came from the manufacturer with the window. You can purchase smaller
rolls of this kind of foam tape at most any hardware store. Just make sure the tape is the proper width to fit the base
of the window and that it is the right thickness. Clean the base with alcohol, make sure the surface is dry, apply the
foam tape, starting on the end that has the hinge and slowly apply the tape across the bottom, pressing the tape
firmly as you go, (make sure the metal is warm,not hot, so the adhesive will stick). When reaching the end just trim the tape flush with the end of the frame and your done! It's true that some of these windows can come with these special
inserts, but most manufacturers just use this foam tape. It was cheaper to use.

This the first time for to comment on anything here, but I just had to say something this time. I don't really get out any
more because of my health, but always enjoy reading all the comments and experiences. Anyway, I hope this helps.
At least my time in the boating industry will good for something!

I think this is your best bet. Its cheap, easy to do and will work just fine. Its also easy to replace in the future if need be. I agree about sticking it on the non-grooved side too. It will stick better and the foam will squash into the groove making a better seal.

The non grooved side is the fiberglass deck. I'm not doing that! I did find a canopy door seal that might do the job. Thanks for pointing me in that direction Larry.