Ol' Girl gets a new Ol' Girl

[Bodofish]

If it requires removing the wood, don't let them put wood back in. For a very small amount more it could be replaced with a synthetic like "Starboard" or aluminum and it will never rot again. There are also some very light alternatives that may save a bit of wieght too, think downriggers on the stern and a kicker, it all adds up.

[Toni]

If it requires removing the wood, don't let them put wood back in. For a very small amount more it could be replaced with a synthetic like "Starboard" or aluminum and it will never rot again. There are also some very light alternatives that may save a bit of wieght too, think downriggers on the stern and a kicker, it all adds up.

Looking at 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum.

[Bodofish]

If it requires removing the wood, don't let them put wood back in. For a very small amount more it could be replaced with a synthetic like "Starboard" or aluminum and it will never rot again. There are also some very light alternatives that may save a bit of wieght too, think downriggers on the stern and a kicker, it all adds up.

Looking at 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum.

That should be plenty strong, one thing to note is 6000 series alloys are aircraft aluminum, you may be better served with a 5000 series alloy that is marine grade, especially if you go in the salt. I don't think there's any difference in the price, at least there wasn't the last ime I was buying the stuff.

[Amx]

Too bad Boeing doesn't have that surplus store anymore. I got some aluminum honeycomb there years ago when I replaced the transom on my old boat back in '88. Sold the boat to my brother and it lasted many years afterwards.

[Toni]

If it requires removing the wood, don't let them put wood back in. For a very small amount more it could be replaced with a synthetic like "Starboard" or aluminum and it will never rot again. There are also some very light alternatives that may save a bit of wieght too, think downriggers on the stern and a kicker, it all adds up.

Looking at 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum.

That should be plenty strong, one thing to note is 6000 series alloys are aircraft aluminum, you may be better served with a 5000 series alloy that is marine grade, especially if you go in the salt. I don't think there's any difference in the price, at least there wasn't the last ime I was buying the stuff.

Where do you get aluminum?

[Bodofish]

You can buy Aluminum at lots of places. If it's small pieces, Metal Shorts in Seattle or bigger pieces at Alaskan Copper & Brass. Metal Shorts is more retail oriented so you're pretty much stuck with what they have on the shelf.

http://www.bing.com/search?q=aluminum+S ... &sp=-1&sk=

[Amx]

I get my metal from Metal Specialties, in Kent, on Central ave. There should be places in Tacoma. Look in the yellow pages under 'metal'.

[Bodofish]

Hehehehe, yeah, I forget, living up north I kinda see everything south of Renton as northern Mexico....

[Amx]

Ya, I got that habit also.

[Toni]

I get my metal from Metal Specialties, in Kent, on Central ave. There should be places in Tacoma. Look in the yellow pages under 'metal'.

I already called them.

[MotoBoat]

WOW was away for a while >>> what's the end of the story ???

Although the motor is stable on the transom, the transom is rotten. Thanks Motoboat.
We are checking into the cheapest way to fix it.
I need to outfit it for fishing, too. I have taken the seats out to put some more space saving ones in.
Then I need a kicker bracket, downriggers, fire extinguisher, anchor, and ???

Toni, I was so hoping that the transom cracks were from age, and use. Not from a structural weakness. This type of repair, is usually more expensive than the boat having the issue is worth. Requires removing the transom and rebuilding it. When the transom is off the boat, it is common for floor stringers to be totally or partially rotten.

You did mention the boat had a plywood floor, and from that can I assume the plywood is not original but replaced?

Of the 3 power boats, friends have either purchased with or had the transom rot. Each was sawzawled and hauled to the dump.

I hope someone in the fishing or marine industry can help you with this. Maybe someone on one of the several fishing sites you frequent can "do you a favor". Take it on as a side job.

What are your repair options to date? Did you know the person or family that sold you the boat?

I am glad you checked the transom out! You save at least on life, by doing so. The more people and gear in the boat, the more stress on the transom.

I have taken on jobs that I had no previous knowledge of before. But they involved, a few YouTube videos, gather the tools and supplies. And go into attack mode. This job is a bit beyond that.

Tell us what kind of progress your making, repairing or rebuilding the ol' girls rear end.

[goodtimesfishing]

The rotten wood can be dug out and replaced with a special epoxy made just for transom repair. Do a google search and you can find all kinds of info and vids of the job being done.

[Toni]

Motoboat I already have someone to work on it. But to do fiberglass work one has to have warmth... no warm garage so have to wait for warm weather. I am crying...that is fishing season. Well, just try to get the other stuff in and wait for the fiberglass.
Yes, the labor would be more than the boat is worth. The aluminum is more than the boat is worth. But the motor is good.

[MotoBoat]

Motoboat I already have someone to work on it. But to do fiberglass work one has to have warmth... no warm garage so have to wait for warm weather. I am crying...that is fishing season. Well, just try to get the other stuff in and wait for the fiberglass.
Yes, the labor would be more than the boat is worth. The aluminum is more than the boat is worth. But the motor is good.

Are you replacing the rotten wood with wood, then replacing the fiberglass skin on both inside and outside?

You seem quite handy, with making lures, tying jigs, and what not. Because of that "handy" ability, are you doing any prep work yourself?

Glad the ball is rolling, albeit slower than you would like.

The aluminum idea did not seam the best option to me, for an effective repair. I mean, how does the detail at each corner of a fiberglass boat work, when installing a transom made of aluminum, where there is rotten wood involved??

Bodo??

[Amx]

If the rotten wood is taken all out.

Then the aluminum made to fit that space, then the aluminum plate will have to have cross stringers to bolt the plate to the fiberglass areas to the side of the plate and to the corners of the boat. I'd say for appearences sake the cross stringers should be inside the boat/transom. But then with the thickness of the transom, say 1", leaving just the outside gel coat layer, and the thickness of the aluminum plate at 1/4", there will be a 3/4" step in the inside surface of the repaired transom. So, the cross stringers will have to be made up to allow for that step. Also I'd say there will still be a flex problem at the edge of the plate as there won't be any positive attachment other than a few bolts thru the gel coat, and I'd go no less than 4 bolts per side, the cross stringer and with that 3/4" step, there will be some flex. That flex will continue to weaken the outer gel coat, and will crack that sooner than later. I wouldn't trust it that way.

SO, I think a new wooden, or that special epoxy mentioned, will be much better than a 1/4" aluminum plate, and do a proper good fiberglassing it all together. If I can do it, and I did back in '88, then anyone can. My brother used that boat for many years.

IF, you insist on an aluminum plate, I'd go no less then 3/8" and better 1/2", as even that outboard will flex a 1/4" aluminum plate somewhat.

Then the bolt heads for the stringers and te plate will be on the outside of the transom, but that's the way it has to be.

If you fiberglass in a new wood transom, the repair shouldn't even be noticable, and if done correctly should outlast the rest of the boat, as it's now 'new'.

[Amx]

Oh ya, the boat that I fixed was a 16 foot Chrysler tri-hull bass boat with a 75 horse Chrysler outboard that I owned for many years, then sold to my brother and he used for many years.

[Bodofish]

I have no idea how it's being repaired. I do concur, the wood has to be replaced with something and be re-glassed in to the stern. Just slapping an aluminum plate on the back isn't going to do it. For doing glass work you can get away with a tent and a couple heaters, the Costco carports with extra sides seem to work. As for temp, most of the resin mfg's make a cold weather formula, but the temp still needs to be 50ish at least. I would not use polyester for the repair, epoxy only. there are just too many bonding problems with older composites.

[Toni]

What about this product?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... KlShGePz-8

[Bodofish]

I've heard good things about the penetrating epoxies and some of the wonders they can pull off. I haven't used any of the West Marine branded resins but I'm totally comfortable with the West System offerings. When I was using a lot, I used mostly brands that are no longer on the market due to being too good... I mean dangerous, too volatile to use these days. If it were me, I'd probably drill with a very long bit from the top to the bottom of the transom, not going all the way through the bottom and fill the holes with the epoxy. I'd probably even thin the epoxy and maybe even a drop of dish soap to help break the tension so it penetrates better. I'd then follow up with filled product to finish off the holes if needed. After it has all hardened completely, bolt through with the aluminum plate but rather than 1/4 inch on one side, maybe 1/8th 3/16th plate on both sides, glued and bolted through the transom. You'd be more than bullet proof.

[Mike Carey]

What about this product?

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... KlShGePz-8

Toni, it would depend on the extent of the rot. Also, you'll need to get the periphery treated, obviously doing the middle if the edges aren't cured won't help.

I will say this, epoxy is an amaxingly strong compounded. I had a sailboat that had a rotted hull and found out after a trip on the sound the only thing keeping the water at bay was a thin epoxy coating. That said, I did end of removing 2/3rds of the boat's keel and out 12" on either side. Quite a task upside down with the boat on the trailer!

If the whole transom is rotted I think remove and replace is the only safe option. I'm sure you have drilled a few exploratory holes farther away from the cracked areas to see if the wood inside is wet? If you find that the whole thing isn't rotted, I think an option would be to remove the affected area up to solid wood, fashion a piece to go in and then expoxy that new wood wood piece to the good wood. Then refiberglass, and if it would give you piece of mind bolt plates on either side well into the solid part of the transom.

I have a feeling others may disagree, but in my experience using an epoxy/sawdust "glue" filler to hold two pieces of wood togther is pretty darn close to 100% equal strength of the original wood. In the above example of my sailboat the keel was replaced at the 2/3rs forward point and the old keel was joined with the new keel by expoxy sawdust glue. It was rock solid and the boat sailed under full force with a 200 pound centerboard down 3 ft under water and a 20 ft tall main sail for a 16 ft sailboat in a stiff wind. That is a tremendous force coming into play, easily similar to an outboard motor IMO.