Northwest Fishing Reports

After trout fishing for decades, I've finally taken to using various types and brands of the so-called super braids of line as my mainline on my UL / L spinning reels. I fought the idea for years, but I now use them almost exclusively. However, I do use a fluorocarbon leader. I use either 4 Lb. or 6 Lb. and find I can spool more line on my reels than mono and also, cast much further' especially with the Nanofil type of braid.

So I'm curious…Thoughts or experience from other anglers?

I use it for all my trolling setups. I feel I get better hooksets, I can see even the slightest take and it is much more durable than mono. That and the feel of the fish during the fight is just amazing. Every headshake and tail stroke is transmitted to your fingertips, with a good graphite rod it's like the fish is in your hands the entire time.

How can one know if a older rod having who knows what brand or type of guide ring can endure a braid line? In general, are braided lines abrasive when contacting the guide ring surface? The few times I have used a rod with braid, there was a strange noise coming from the braid touching the guide rings when reeling in line.

The older, chrome plated straight metal guides would be a concern. However, I have not run into any issues using guides with ceramic inserts. In all honesty, braided lines are not abrasive enough on their own to cause any issues. It's the grit they pick up that does the real damage. Today's braided lines are woven tighter, some are fused and others are coated to help maintain their durability. This helps with minimizing the amount of grit they pickup and retain.

On occasion I have replaced single guides and removed all guides, replacing them with knew. When purchasing guide sets, I notice some tout they are for "braid" lines. While other guide set brands do not specify. I used a Wright & McGill eagle claw combination rod for many years as a kid. The handle reversed for use as a fly rod or a spinning outfit. The guides were stainless or chrome plated rings like Gman describes. Over the many years of service, mono line wore "v" grooves in one spot of some or all of the guides. Mono is quiet as it passed against the guide surface.

While braid makes a sound as it passes over the guides, like it is abrasive, your saying braid picks up fine dirt particles. And even so, all guides with a ring material would be fine?

Mono line being lubricated by water during line retrieval, how do you suppose the mono cut "v" grooves into metal line guides?

Friction causes heat, and heat can do some amazing things. When metal is heated and allowed to cool slowly it anneals or softens. Once a soft spot is created, it becomes more susceptible to wear. Once a wear spot is started, it will continue to get worse as more surface area of the metal comes into contact with the line. The ceramic guides use a non-metal insert which is typically harder and not effected by temperature like a metal product.

While I have not experimented using braid with older, all metal guides, I suspect some braids may cut them even less than regular mono. Non-coated and non-fused super lines retain/absorb water, which in theory would reduce the heat created while coming into contact with the metal. Reduced heat should equal longer guide life. The one main disadvantage to using braid is freezing weather. Because it absorbs water, it can be a problem getting it all back on the reel when it is cold enough to freeze during the retrieve.

Some braids require a "break-in"; for example Spiderwire will make a "noise" through the guides for a period of time and then with use, the "noise" disappears. Nanofil does not make any noise; casts a mile, but I do not find it to be not as abrasion resistant as Spiderwire or its clones. Nonetheless, I am finding all the low test braids seem to be beat mono for abrasion resistantence, cast ability, and general toughness. I have yet to have them break on a fish or even a snag. The only trick is in knot tieing with a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me. I have yet to see any guide wear or grooves in the guides of any of my rods. I think the initial "noise" of Spiderwire and its clones scare off some people unnecessarily.

I will say it was a odd sound, that I did not find appealing. The sound reverberated or was felt through the rod.

The pluses of braid are noticeable. Small diameter, no stretch, and much superior breaking strength of braid when compared to similar size mono, sure is a compelling feature.

How is braid to untangle when a birds nest occurs in a level wind reel?


I was not aware the braid becomes silent or is silent out of the box. I would have thought, this is something you get used to. Therefore, still occurs but is no longer noticed.

T-Bone wrote:a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me.

Hey T-Bone, what's a double loop polymeyer knot? I've used a double uni-knot to attach leader to braid, but have never heard of the other one you mention. Is it easier to tie than a double uni?

hewesfisher wrote:

T-Bone wrote:a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me.

Hey T-Bone, what's a double loop polymeyer knot? I've used a double uni-knot to attach leader to braid, but have never heard of the other one you mention. Is it easier to tie than a double uni?

I'm guessing he means doubling up the line before tying the palomar knot. For my saltwater rigs I usually run braid all the way to my terminal tackle. I'll double up the line several inches and use it to tie on a snap swivel using an improved clinch or palomar knot. If you double up the braid, even a surgeon's loop will hold.

G-Man wrote:

hewesfisher wrote:

T-Bone wrote:a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me.

Hey T-Bone, what's a double loop polymeyer knot? I've used a double uni-knot to attach leader to braid, but have never heard of the other one you mention. Is it easier to tie than a double uni?

I'm guessing he means doubling up the line before tying the palomar knot. For my saltwater rigs I usually run braid all the way to my terminal tackle. I'll double up the line several inches and use it to tie on a snap swivel using an improved clinch or palomar knot. If you double up the braid, even a surgeon's loop will hold.

Flasher or dodger is tied directly to the braid?

Close, I tie it directly to a Sampo ball bearing hooked snap swivel and that attaches directly to the flash/dodger, J-Plug, etc. The only mono in that setup is between the lure and the attractor. I was trying to imply that I forgo the use of a mono "topshot" like I do with my trout setups where I tie on 30' of mono leader to the end of the braid.

G-Man wrote:Close, I tie it directly to a Sampo ball bearing hooked snap swivel and that attaches directly to the flash/dodger, J-Plug, etc. The only mono in that setup is between the lure and the attractor. I was trying to imply that I forgo the use of a mono "topshot" like I do with my trout setups where I tie on 30' of mono leader to the end of the braid.

I got your meaning. I just wasn't sure that is what you did. For trout there is 30ft of mono. But for Salmon there is the mono leader only. Are Salmon not line shy? In your opinion, what if braided line was used for the leader material, would that negatively affect the Salmon from hitting the lure? Remove from the equation that braid might not be stiff enough to transmit the action to the lure that stiff, heavy mono would. Taking only into consideration the visibility of the mono or braid, to a Salmon, when used as a leader material?

hewesfisher wrote:

T-Bone wrote:a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me.

Hey T-Bone, what's a double loop polymeyer knot? I've used a double uni-knot to attach leader to braid, but have never heard of the other one you mention. Is it easier to tie than a double uni?

AKA, the Nanofil Knot:

http://www.berkley-fishing.com/Berkley- ... -knot.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In the saltwater i don't think it really matters if the fish can see your leader or not. I have several old spoons "tied" up with solid wire leaders. Also, take into consideration that some mono is UV reactive, intentional or not, and work just fine. In fact, it may even enhance your hookup ratio. Personally, I prefer Maxima mono products for leader material as it is stiff and holds up well, even when abraded.

T-Bone wrote:

hewesfisher wrote:

T-Bone wrote:a double loop polymeyer or a uni-knot being the best choises for me.

Hey T-Bone, what's a double loop polymeyer knot? I've used a double uni-knot to attach leader to braid, but have never heard of the other one you mention. Is it easier to tie than a double uni?

AKA, the Nanofil Knot:

http://www.berkley-fishing.com/Berkley- ... -knot.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ah, ok, Palomar not Polymeyer.

I know the first one, thought the second was a new one.

Please excuse the old man, college graduate that occasionally can't spell.

Tom

If it wasnt for spell check people would think I never graduated from kindergarten! Thanks to auto-correct, people often ask me if I even went to kindergarten!