Northwest Fishing Reports

Going trolling for kokes this weekend. I want to try using the 3 way swivel method.

Main line on upper swivel, then the bottom swivel will be a 4 foot leader with a 2-4oz weight depending on depth, and the rear swivel will be a 4 foot leader with a dodger or cow bell.

I have never tried this before and was wondering if you experts in here have?

It's my understanding that with this methods you can get a much more accurate depth on your gear by judging line angle vs pulls of the line out against drag.

If this is a crappy idea, please fill me in on some of your trolling secrets.


We will be in an 18' Smokercraft on an electric trolling motor.

That's the way I do it from my rubber raft. I like to use the trolling spreader bars, they make for less tangles on the drop. I usually count pulls until I ifnd the right depths and have done okay for kokanee. When I finally got a fish finder it was much easier to find my depth, because you can see your weight on the screen. Also they have line counters that you can put on your rod. Depending on your speed you will need more or less weight. But in the end when you find the fish, keep your rods at that depth.

You've got a motor, so you'll be better off than I am. Heheh, I have to row and manage four rods when we go.

Thanks a ton. Glad to hear this method isn't just a google legend.

I would think that with some careful methods of setting the gear in the water slowly, and taking your time to let the line out, that tangling wouldn't be a problem. I'll have to look into these spreader bars.

What will the weight look like on a fish finder screen? I'll have to look for that too!

I have a relatively inexpensive portable sonar unit, it has a low resolution, but it shows up as a weird blotch. But my oars show up too, which is annoying.

I have the two pole endorsement which makes it way easier to search fish at different depths, with the finder it became even better. It was between getting a motor or a finder and I got a finder. Hehehe.

Also, i've made up a downrigger from half of a big meat stick rod with 100 pound test power pro on a cheap bait cast reel with a line counter. Just plop it in the rod holder and rig it up.

you can buy lead keels....you know..like the plastic 1s on the front of popgear....you run these inline with a GOOD swivle on the bk... less tangle and you can get a lil deeper with less weight because the thin design of the keel dosnt give you as much blow bk...less lead means ya feel more fish...DOG

http://www.offshoretackle.com/graphics/ ... ctions.pdf


This is hands down the best "poor mans downrigger" techniques out there.

buy a a Buds Diver no need to buy downriggers. They work better than downriggers without the noise.

I would run a lead line rig. You can spool the lead line on any conventional spool reel. When fishing for kokanee use a 20-30 foot top-shot of 8 pound fluorocarbon leader. Attach your dodger or gang troll to the end of the top-shot then run your lure behind that. Lead line comes dyed in a different color every 30 feet and depending on your trolling speed and tackle used, sinks about 1 foot for every 5’ or 6’ of line in the water (example “2 colors” you are running your gear at 10' or 12’ deep). We fish at least 1 lead line rig every time we are out kokanee fishing and it is usually the first to get bit.

rseas wrote:I would run a lead line rig. You can spool the lead line on any conventional spool reel. When fishing for kokanee use a 20-30 foot top-shot of 8 pound fluorocarbon leader. Attach your dodger or gang troll to the end of the top-shot then run your lure behind that. Lead line comes dyed in a different color every 30 feet and depending on your trolling speed and tackle used, sinks about 1 foot for every 5’ or 6’ of line in the water (example “2 colors” you are running your gear at 10” or 12’ deep). We fish at least 1 lead line rig every time we are out kokanee fishing and it is usually the first to get bit.

It can be fun to fish leaded line from a fly rod/reel. You can pick up a cheap larger size fly spool maybe on CL, and load it with leaded line. Then you are getting down the water collum, and you can play your fish on the nice feel of the fly rod.

Mr Black,

I'd wait to fish kokes, maybe middle of next month. Downriggers are not a requirement, but if you want to fish with ultra light gear you will want one. I swiced over many years ago and would never go back! I now can use a super ultra light rod and fish as deep as I need to. Early in the season they will be up top, flat lineing will work. Mid season you will need to get deeper, maybe around 25' or so. That depends on our weather and of course the water temp.

Kokanee Kid wrote:Mr Black,

I'd wait to fish kokes, maybe middle of next month. Downriggers are not a requirement, but if you want to fish with ultra light gear you will want one. I swiced over many years ago and would never go back! I now can use a super ultra light rod and fish as deep as I need to. Early in the season they will be up top, flat lineing will work. Mid season you will need to get deeper, maybe around 25' or so. That depends on our weather and of course the water temp.

KK he went fishing in June, 2011.

I started the week after you did kid-o.

Kokanee Kid wrote:I started the week after you did kid-o.

You waited for my report?

When the big Sockeye rush back in late 80's to early 90's my father & I would fish from a rubber raft. We used white nylon rope ( camp rope ). We would mark the rope with permanent colored markers every ten feet with black between every five feet, attach a 4lb downrigger ball and a small quick release attached five feet above the ball. We had a small 3.5hp Merc. We would place the the rope over the side so it wouldn't interfere with the motor. Total cost was $18.59, we fished 5 days and we limited every day using U-20 Flatfish.