Mastering your Electronics

[2000subaru]

Not just for the Bassers, but looking for input from all on this topic. I am kinda at a loss for how to adequately utilize my boat electronics. Somedays it seems like I am fishing with a stick as a depth finder because I am never locating fish on the screen and then catching those same fish. I am sure that my settings are not set up optimally, but what I ask of you today is does anyone have a site or a way to learn how to be a master of your machine?

I aspire to be able to fish of the bow of my boat, Dropshotting for smallies, and being able to watch my bait/line on the screen.

How do I get there???

[fishing collector]

Try this ebay top tips site http://blogs.ebay.co.uk/2007marine-12vm ... Z151050012 Might help, Steve

[dilbert]

I aspire to be able to fish of the bow of my boat, Dropshotting for smallies, and being able to watch my bait/line on the screen.

I'd start with a transducer on your trolling motor.

Not all fish finders allow you to see a real time image of the bottom like those fancy ones on fishing infomercials (also called fishing shows). The image you see on the screen of a fishfinder is a history of what has passed through your sonar cone. The real-time reading is just one column of pixels which is drawn on the right of the screen, but that doesn't mean what you are seeing is on the right of your boat. With a 60-degree cone in 30' of water you're looking at a circle of the bottom with about a 35' diameter flattened down on a 2D screen.

Lowrance has some good info on their site. If we go to the silver fish show this year, we should attend one of the Lowrance sonar classes.
http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-an ... -Tutorial/

[tagwatson360]

A couple tips for getting started:

ALWAYS turn your Automatic settings OFF

ALWAYS manually adjust your sensitivity, colorline or grayline, chart speed (depending on depth), depth range and zoom functions to give you the most detailed picture of the area you are fishing (while elminating excessive clutter in the water column). This takes work because you will often have to adjust your settings constantly throughout the day depending on the depth, water clarity, bottom composition and the absence or presence of weed growth. The extra effort will pay huge dividends in determining bottom composition, identifying the thermocline, locating the sweet spots on the structure, marking bass and baitfish, etc.

When structure fishing in deeper water I prefer to run a split screen zoom. On the non-zoomed screen I run the depth range at least 3 times the depth I am fishing. This way I can see a double or triple echo if present. This helps me better determine the bottom composition. I run the zoom screen at 2x or 4x zoom depending on the depth window I am focused on for optimum target seperation.

Use the best electronics you can afford. The higher wattage and increased pixel count will improve target seperation and give you a better picture of exactly what it is you are fishing.

Good luck!

[BassinBomber]

A couple tips for getting started:

ALWAYS turn your Automatic settings OFF

ALWAYS manually adjust your sensitivity, colorline or grayline, chart speed (depending on depth), depth range and zoom functions to give you the most detailed picture of the area you are fishing (while elminating excessive clutter in the water column). This takes work because you will often have to adjust your settings constantly throughout the day depending on the depth, water clarity, bottom composition and the absence or presence of weed growth. The extra effort will pay huge dividends in determining bottom composition, identifying the thermocline, locating the sweet spots on the structure, marking bass and baitfish, etc.

When structure fishing in deeper water I prefer to run a split screen zoom. On the non-zoomed screen I run the depth range at least 3 times the depth I am fishing. This way I can see a double or triple echo if present. This helps me better determine the bottom composition. I run the zoom screen at 2x or 4x zoom depending on the depth window I am focused on for optimum target seperation.

Use the best electronics you can afford. The higher wattage and increased pixel count will improve target seperation and give you a better picture of exactly what it is you are fishing.

Good luck!

Tag,..you're definately the "Go-2" guy when it comes 2 tips/advice,..what a resource,..thanks again!

BB

[Rich McVey]

I probably dont need to say this, memorize the users manual, well atleast the settings part. You can check the manufacturers web site, they may have addition docs that dont come in the box.


Not that it applies to you, I had this problem once with out knowing it. Transducer was bad. Make sure your unit is not in DEMO or SIMULATOR mode, (garmin shows a tiny S on the screen) This will give you a false indication of what is under your boat.

If your trolling motor if bow mounted, I agree about having a trolling motor mounted transducer. If the transducer is on the back then you have passed the fish before they show on screen.

I like to think of my screen as Right=Front, Left=Back. An easy way to picture this is to turn the screen so that the right side of the screen is facing the bow. This will give you a better idea of how things are passing under the boat.

By the time a fish is drawn on the screen, its probably already behind the boat, more so as your speed increases. Check the specs for your unit on draw time (scroll time) I keep mine as fast as possible.



For simplicity, I wont get started on cones and planes.

[dilbert]

I like to think of my screen as Right=Front, Left=Back. An easy way to picture this is to turn the screen so that the right side of the screen is facing the bow.

So if a fish swims in from the side of your boat, where is it drawn on the screen?

[2000subaru]

I'd start with a transducer on your trolling motor.

You got me there. You fixed it once, I broke it again. I am trying to hold off and decide on maybe a better finder for the bow.

I have to put much time in making the most of my electronics. I will have to start spending more time adjusting it seems. Maybe a trip to Bellingham to visit TAG for a lesson and some Whatcom smallies!:-"

[SONNN]

You got me there. You fixed it once, I broke it again. I am trying to hold off and decide on maybe a better finder for the bow.

I have to put much time in making the most of my electronics. I will have to start spending more time adjusting it seems. Maybe a trip to Bellingham to visit TAG for a lesson and some Whatcom smallies!:-"

SMALLIES DONT EXIST!!!!!

[2000subaru]

SMALLIES DONT EXIST!!!!!

I've seen the pictures and I agree.

[Rich McVey]

I like to think of my screen as Right=Front, Left=Back. An easy way to picture this is to turn the screen so that the right side of the screen is facing the bow.

So if a fish swims in from the side of your boat, where is it drawn on the screen?

If it goes thru the sonar in any direction, then it would show as if you were driving past it, on the right. So if your sitting still and fish keep showing up then... they swimming around under you.

I know, that way I stated it wasnt super clear. Hope I didnt muddle up the matter.