Light or Heavy Line

[Trent Hale]

I know that some of you fish with light line for the fight. And others use heavy line to get the big ones in. I don't like brade"due to back lash"but braid will land all your fish. This week while fishing with a jig using 17# test a bass hit I set the hook and snap. It was a big fish 6-8 or bigger. I'm going to get some braid and try it one more time does any one know of any thing thats just as good. I like florocarbon Because fish cant see it. How well do the fish see braid or what color would you use. Or do I go with heavy floro like 20-25# test.

power pro 50+ on all my reels

the main reason why i use this line is for sure brute strength.

it has virtually no stretch, which is especially good for long casts. this quality is very helpful when i use big topwater. on long distance casts, i can drive the hooks home. with that amount of strength, i have the ability to turn the big fish around quickly. quickly is the key word here. you can turn fish around with all sorts of line strengths, but how quickly can you with smaller diameters. the fish is at home in the water, the longer they are there, they greater the chance of losing them.

proper knot selections is another factor in raising the number of fish landed. after switching to the polmar knot, i no longer experience knots slipping, or breaking off during hookset. i also leave alot of cut off now, as it was suggested to me. before i use to cut off really close to the lure, but what is the point really? i now leave atleast 1/2 - 1 inch after i cut off, so if there is a slight slip, which there can be, i still have a fighting chance.

there are a few cons when it comes to braid, but most if not all are preventable, as in most cases it is user error. you already mentioned one. if you do get a backlash its brutal, and using heavier lures, you can break off during a cast. it has already happened once, and ive already learned my lesson. use your brakes and spool tension wisely, pay attention to those stray lines as your lure goes off during a cast and you will reduce the number of problems. my thumb is rarely far away from the spool.

braid is more susceptible to abrasions, so you must retire more often. the slightest nick in the line cant cause it to fail. line color will eventually fade, but it returns to a darker color once wet... and there is nothing a marker cant fix if you are that picky.

the pros definately out weight the cons in my book. based on my experience before and after braid, and going on my hookup ratio and fish landed, i will not go back.

Sounds good T Dot I will get some. I use the polmar knot and melt the end of the line so it can't slip through the knot. I am so sick of mono and flouro that breaks off and not only miss the fish but lose a good lure!

[the1fishingpro]

Right now I have been using 30lb braid for my Smallies and for Sturgeon at the same time. 30lb Braid is a lethal combination for catching anything almost. Its thin like 8lb flouro and it can hold a lot of line on your reel. I recommend it.

[Anonymous]

[quote="Trent Hale: Sounds good T Dot I will get some. I use the polmar knot and melt the end of the line so it can't slip through the knot. I am so sick of mono and flouro that breaks off and not only miss the fish but lose a good lure![/quote"]

Know what ya mean Trent. I probably lost a half dozen Rapalas, at over 5 bucks a pop, with 10 pound mono before switching to Power Pro.

[Ditch Pickler]

Braid backlash is horrible and the abrasion it gets is rough and it doesnt cast as far. But i do have past experiences with it. I tend to match my line for the situation and lure used. Like for instance, it woudnt use flourcarbon for topwater since the line will sink fast and bring the front of the lure down etc...

I use 20# pline evolution for my swimbait rods,10# pline cxx premium on my casting rods, 8# pline flourcarbon on my spinning rod for finesse fishing and 30# braid on my flipping stick for heavy jigs,frogs etc for fishing thick weed/matted area.

Also, Since the bass is already in heavy cover, the chances of them seeing the braid would be minimal i think. braid should be used for that situation only IMO of course,

I like the play of the fish and knowing that if i make a wrong move its gone. Setting the hook with light line shouldnt be a problem if you know how to pull set. I see alot of anglers crank down and yank with all there strength. Last time i checked gamakatsu hooks are ultra sharp and penatrate very easily...

[HillbillyGeek]

I know that some of you fish with light line for the fight. And others use heavy line to get the big ones in. I don't like brade"due to back lash"but braid will land all your fish. This week while fishing with a jig using 17# test a bass hit I set the hook and snap. It was a big fish 6-8 or bigger. I'm going to get some braid and try it one more time does any one know of any thing thats just as good. I like florocarbon Because fish cant see it. How well do the fish see braid or what color would you use. Or do I go with heavy floro like 20-25# test.

power pro 50+ on all my reels

the main reason why i use this line is for sure brute strength.

it has virtually no stretch, which is especially good for long casts. this quality is very helpful when i use big topwater. on long distance casts, i can drive the hooks home. with that amount of strength, i have the ability to turn the big fish around quickly. quickly is the key word here. you can turn fish around with all sorts of line strengths, but how quickly can you with smaller diameters. the fish is at home in the water, the longer they are there, they greater the chance of losing them.

proper knot selections is another factor in raising the number of fish landed. after switching to the polmar knot, i no longer experience knots slipping, or breaking off during hookset. i also leave alot of cut off now, as it was suggested to me. before i use to cut off really close to the lure, but what is the point really? i now leave atleast 1/2 - 1 inch after i cut off, so if there is a slight slip, which there can be, i still have a fighting chance.

there are a few cons when it comes to braid, but most if not all are preventable, as in most cases it is user error. you already mentioned one. if you do get a backlash its brutal, and using heavier lures, you can break off during a cast. it has already happened once, and ive already learned my lesson. use your brakes and spool tension wisely, pay attention to those stray lines as your lure goes off during a cast and you will reduce the number of problems. my thumb is rarely far away from the spool.

braid is more susceptible to abrasions, so you must retire more often. the slightest nick in the line cant cause it to fail. line color will eventually fade, but it returns to a darker color once wet... and there is nothing a marker cant fix if you are that picky.

the pros definately out weight the cons in my book. based on my experience before and after braid, and going on my hookup ratio and fish landed, i will not go back.

Sounds good T Dot I will get some. I use the polmar knot and melt the end of the line so it can't slip through the knot. I am so sick of mono and flouro that breaks off and not only miss the fish but lose a good lure!

If mono & fluorocarbon lines are breaking on a regular basis, either your drag is too tight or your line is getting nicks. Since mono stretches, it acts like a shock absorber and is less likely to snap than no-stretch lines. Fluorocarbon line is VERY though, so if you're breaking it, the drag on your reel is definitely set too tight.

When I was a teenager, I caught several largemouth bass that were between 3 & 4 lbs using ultralight gear and 4 lb mono. Good technique and the proper drag setting will do wonders!

If you're comparing 12 lb mono to 50 lb braid, that's not exactly a fair test because the strength ratings are different.

Another thing to consider: Lines that stretch make it much easier to keep constant pressure on a fish, which is a very good thing -- especially if you're using lures that have treble hooks. The fastest way to lose a fish is to give slack on a treble hook. The first time the fish jumps, you can kiss it goodbye.

[Anglinarcher]

Are you fishing for LMB? I've had them break line from here to Florida or I'm just getting fish that have never been caught and there teeth are sharper. Now if your using Braid I can see that.

LOL, yes, I am fishing for LMB, and SMB. I can't think of any 10+ SMB ever on my line though. As for teeth, you have got to be kidding, we lip bass and teeth are not an issue.

Sure, when using Mono, I re-tie often. This is not so much due to teeth, but to all sources of abrasion. This should be a simple habit that we all get into - get a fish, check the line for abrasion.

Of course, if you are using K-Mart special line, you get what you pay for. I use to use Stren Magna Thin in low poundages, but I found the line had too many imperfections in it and I could not count on it. Today, I prefer Suffix, Gamma, and similar lines. My Fluorocarbon is a Seagar. I apologize for all improperly spelled line names.

[Anglinarcher]

Comments have been made above on knot types. I usually use the UNI knot; it can be tied as a slip loop, it can be cut very close without fear of it slipping, it is almost 100% strong if properly tied, and I can almost tie it in the dark just by feel.

There are a lot of other great knots out there, but you really should test a lot of them, see which ones work best for you before you ever go fishing, and learn to tie them well. If you are breaking off a lot, knots may be the problem.

There are comments about mono working as a shock absorber. This is soooooooo true. I find that my braid rods need to be a lighter action compared to my mono rods. Still, I like the fact that the near zero stretch of a braid allows for a quick hook set in tough or long distance conditions. Fluorocarbon is more like mono in stretch, but not nearly so much, but far more than braid.

Last thing, nicks, abrasion, and simple wear. I do not agree that braids are susceptible to nicks. I have intentionally fished braids with nicks without problem, but I don't suggest it. I would never get that lazy with mono or Fluorocarbon. I contend that you should be checking your line out often, and re-tie often.

[T Dot]

I re-tie often.

period... no matter what line you are using.

we had a wicked blowup last year and takedown last year. on hookset the fish was gone.

i vowed to myself... never again should i make such an mistake. every fish, every hour, i retie - which ever comes first.

[Trent Hale]

Are you fishing for LMB? I've had them break line from here to Florida or I'm just getting fish that have never been caught and there teeth are sharper. Now if your using Braid I can see that.

LOL, yes, I am fishing for LMB, and SMB. I can't think of any 10+ SMB ever on my line though. As for teeth, you have got to be kidding, we lip bass and teeth are not an issue.

Sure, when using Mono, I re-tie often. This is not so much due to teeth, but to all sources of abrasion. This should be a simple habit that we all get into - get a fish, check the line for abrasion.

Of course, if you are using K-Mart special line, you get what you pay for. I use to use Stren Magna Thin in low poundages, but I found the line had too many imperfections in it and I could not count on it. Today, I prefer Suffix, Gamma, and similar lines. My Fluorocarbon is a Seagar. I apologize for all improperly spelled line names.

Yea we lip bass and after a day my thumb is close to bleading the large bass do this to me all the time but I have only caught one dink this year I don't even touch the fish just grab the lure and turn the fish off. And I retie often The fish that break my line are in the 6-9# range. I have some of the best rods and real combos. Browning, Pfluger,Quantium. And my drag is set so the fish can pull drag easy. I don't know how your getting every fish thats hits on 4#or even 10# test. I use very large lures for the big ones and they hit like a gator and don't slow down at all like there not even on your line. When I take my kids fishing I'll hook them up with the smallest baits I have so they can get fish and thats 7.5 in.And knot ties I have tryed them all Keep I mind I lived on the Gulf coast almost all my life and down there a 12-14# bass is a give me every time you go out. And I will tell you your not going to get that kind of fish with light line. If it dosn't break your line she will strip off all your line. I have caught many Red Drums or Red fish and this has to be one of the hardest pulling fish I have ever caught and when you see the guys on TV catching these Hawgs they cut out most of the fight. One thats 42in long will take about 20mins to land or they will break your line. But were talking Bass and I have a wall hanger that was caught with 20# test and the line was tinking all the way I was thankfull She didn't break off. And I buy new line all the time from BPS. I love flouro but it also will break off on some lunkers.

[Ditch Pickler]

If mono & fluorocarbon lines are breaking on a regular basis, either your drag is too tight or your line is getting nicks. Since mono stretches, it acts like a shock absorber and is less likely to snap than no-stretch lines. Fluorocarbon line is VERY though, so if you're breaking it, the drag on your reel is definitely set too tight.

When I was a teenager, I caught several largemouth bass that were between 3 & 4 lbs using ultralight gear and 4 lb mono. Good technique and the proper drag setting will do wonders!

If you're comparing 12 lb mono to 50 lb braid, that's not exactly a fair test because the strength ratings are different.

Another thing to consider: Lines that stretch make it much easier to keep constant pressure on a fish, which is a very good thing -- especially if you're using lures that have treble hooks. The fastest way to lose a fish is to give slack on a treble hook. The first time the fish jumps, you can kiss it goodbye.

Perfect explanation ive read. Drag needs to be set correctly with Proper play of the fish is a must. i've lost at least 3 5-6 lbrs this yr from not playing the fish correctly. Doug cupri caught his 22+ on 8lb test. He played the fish for over 15 mins and didnt just horse her in. So thats goes to show us all, that we just need to use the proper technique landing big fish on light line.

[Trent Hale]

If I was using braid 4# test I would always get my fish.

[BassinBomber]

Nice reply Archer!!!

[BassinBomber]

Caught my PB LMB using light gear,...wasn't prepared for Bass,..but seen her and tossed at her anyways,..loosened my drag just enough and when she took my lure, set the hook and constantly adjusted my drag as I played her,..took a while but I got her out the water! 6 lb test,..Bass was just under 6 lbs.

[gian]

I have 15lb power pro braided on my trout setup. It has a 4lb diameter. I used it for casting/ fishing rivers when I first got it and it got shredded pretty easily after a few runs. Now I only use it for trolling. For casting I use 10# flouro with the drag set appropriately. I've only used 30# or higher when fishing for tuna. It seems like overkill for bass. I usually have my drag set light so when I set the hook I get a small slip. Not enough slip to lose the fish, but light enough to save the line and make for a nicer fight. I love the sound of my drag peeling off, makes it more sporting for me. I can usually tell how big the fish is just by how much line they can pull. So in short my 2cents is use light line and fight the fish... but thats just me. I don't get much sleep. :shaking2:

[BassinBomber]

Your a funny man gian!!! BB

[Trent Hale]

Line 20# P-Pro 6# dia. casts great and supper feel on the bottom. I'm hooked!

[HillbillyGeek]

Line 20# P-Pro 6# dia. casts great and supper feel on the bottom. I'm hooked!

I think 20# p-pro is more like 4# mono -- which is even better!

I've been using 20# tuff-line because I got it on sale (P-pro is my favorite). Tuff-line is actually pretty darn good. No complaints so far.

One thing I've been doing to reduce abrasion is going with a HUGE (6 foot+) leader of high-quality mono or yo-zuri fluorocarbon hybrid. The only knot I'll use to connect the two is the albright. When tied properly and cinched up tight, the albright is VERY reliable and will not slip. I trim it right up to the knot and haven't had any problems. Today I got snagged and when I gave it a strong tug, the leader broke -- just as it was supposed to since it's only 10#.

I've tried the blood knot and the "double uni", but they have let me down. If your lines are the same diameter those knots might be OK. If your line diameters vary considerably because your mainline is braid, nothing beats the albright.

Here's how you tie it:
http://www.netknots.com/html/albright_special.html

[Trent Hale]

Thanks for that info. I'm not big on leaders unless I'm in salt water. I just tie to the lure I'm useing.