What do with 2000 Nissan 9.8 Outboard (2-Stroke)

[natewatters]

Hey all - fairly new to the forum (longtime lurker and report reader).

I've been wanting to get a boat for awhile now - nothing crazy, just a 12 or 14 foot aluminum with an outboard. Something to hit the rivers (and maybe the sound) with for salmon/steelhead. Maybe cruise the lakes for joyrides on occasion. I've been shopping around on craigslist here and there, but nothing serious. Just researching and daydreaming, mostly. I considered buying an outboard my dad has had in the garage awhile to get a head start on the boat situation, but couldn't really justify the cost.

Well, the other day good 'ol Dad showed up at my place with the motor as my birthday gift. Needless to say I'm pretty damn excited. Now I just need to figure out what to do with it. Here's a quick rundown:

It's a 2000 or 2001 Nissan 9.8 2-stroke with mayyybe 10 hours on it. Was used as a kicker on our old Reinell Cabin Cruiser. Inside and out, this thing looks absolutely brand new. Now this could be either good or bad. It literally hasn't been run in probably 10 years, just sitting in a garage, covered and mounted to a sawhorse. I assume it'll need at least the gear oil changed and a new fuel filter, but what else should I do before trying to start it?

Also, it's a longer-shaft motor since he used it as a kicker on our old Reinell - I measured it to be about 23". I've only done a small amount of research, but from what I understand, most aluminum boats in the size I'm looking at require something with a shorter shaft. Is there some kind of mount I can use to raise it up (safely)?

Would love to hear any and all input. Thanks!

[jd39]

If it's not too far I'd take it to Sorensen Marine in White Center for service/inspection, they're a good shop and focus on Nissans and Tohatsus. Then I'd look for used 12-14' Sorensens or Livingstons. A 12T livie or 14' of either will fit that motor pretty well. That set up won't fly across the water but will get you where you're going and be really stable at that size class.
To admit my bias, I have a 12T livie with a 9.8 Tohatsu (purchased from Sorensen's Marine) long shaft and love the set up. Fishes 2 people great, 3 ~ok but space is a bit tight. The stability is what sells it to me though.
Don't bother with the service until you're ready to put it on a boat and use it though. Just my $.02. Good luck!

[natewatters]

Good advice, thanks! I've always liked the livingstons. I don't care so much about going fast (I know, I know...I'm sure I'll have a different opinion after two weeks) as just having something reliable and fun...and a boat that catches lots of fish, of course!

And I'm in Beacon Hill, so that shop isn't too far from me. I'll be sure to check them out.

[Jerry H]

Rat City Whalers (Sorensen boats) are hard to beat and great service! Good people to kick ideas around with.

Good luck.

[ResQ]

Great motor! I just sold my 2010 alumacraft 14 foot jon boat with a nissan 8 hp motor. That boat could fly. The boat really depends on what you are looking for. Personally, Cabelas has some great prices on a few of their boats. I just got my second Cabelas boat this last summer. Since you have the motor, the boat is actually the cheap part. There is also craigslist. The only downside that I can think of having a longshaft on a smaller boat is to just remember how far down you hang so you dont hit bottom. Congrats on the motor!

[MotoBoat]

The only real drawback of having a longer shaft motor for a transom requiring a shorter one. Is drag in the water. That drag would reduce top end speed but not affect trolling speed, and as mentioned grounding the prop in shallow water. Like when beaching, launching, trailering.......ect. I think the difference between a standard shaft and long is 5". I suppose another draw back for having to long a shaft, might make turning the motor left or right at speed, a bit harder, due to the added water resistance on the extra 5" of shaft length.

Normally, the cavitation plate on the outboard, will line up or be just slightly below the bottom of the boat when the motor is down. The cavitation plate is the plate just above the propeller. Imagine the cavitation plate 5" below the boat bottom. Although, to short a shaft is a deal breaker, having to long a shaft comes with minor negatives, but would function just fine. To short, water inlet for the water pump is above the water line. Not a problem for the long shaft.

Some outboard motors, like Jonson/evinrude, and merc have a exhaust housing extension. This extension is easily removed, transforming a long shaft into a standard. Along with the extension, there is another extension for the drive shaft, that easily comes of as well.

As far as firing it up. Put some fresh gas/oil mixed at 50:1 in the tank, plug the fuel line in, and yank on the cord. As long as the motor has been stored inside, there would be no harm done. Fuel, spark, and compression is all that is needed to fire the motor. Only in extreme cases would you need to pull the spark plugs, and spray in some fresh 50:1 gas/oil mix, replace the spark plugs before firing. The only other consideration would be new spark plug before firing, but as new as this motor is, that should not be required.

The risk in doing this is spraying in to much and fowling the spark plugs, in this case you might think the motor had a problem (won't start), when it did not. The reason I would not be to concerned about prepping the outboard after a long storage period. Is, a two stroke is extremely inefficient when it comes to burning the fuel/oil mix. Because of this, there a unburnt coating of oil on the internal parts.

If the gas was burned out of the carb, before the motor was stored. The motor should start with little difficulty. If not, the carb could be gummed up. The motor will either start, or it won't. If it does not, that is when I would take it to the outboard shop, not before.

[Bodofish]

If it's not too far I'd take it to Sorensen Marine in White Center for service/inspection, they're a good shop and focus on Nissans and Tohatsus. Then I'd look for used 12-14' Sorensens or Livingstons. A 12T livie or 14' of either will fit that motor pretty well. That set up won't fly across the water but will get you where you're going and be really stable at that size class.
To admit my bias, I have a 12T livie with a 9.8 Tohatsu (purchased from Sorensen's Marine) long shaft and love the set up. Fishes 2 people great, 3 ~ok but space is a bit tight. The stability is what sells it to me though.
Don't bother with the service until you're ready to put it on a boat and use it though. Just my $.02. Good luck!

Actually neither of them will work with a long shaft with out a bunch of modification. I own a 14' Sorenson and I can say with out doubt it takes a short shaft, like in the 15" range, like the Johnson that's on it. My 9.9 Merc with the 20" shaft is too long. They also don't have the strongest transom in the world and would really benefit from some extra ply, while doing that one could raise the transom up a bit but 10" is a lot.

[jd39]

If it's not too far I'd take it to Sorensen Marine in White Center for service/inspection, they're a good shop and focus on Nissans and Tohatsus. Then I'd look for used 12-14' Sorensens or Livingstons. A 12T livie or 14' of either will fit that motor pretty well. That set up won't fly across the water but will get you where you're going and be really stable at that size class.
To admit my bias, I have a 12T livie with a 9.8 Tohatsu (purchased from Sorensen's Marine) long shaft and love the set up. Fishes 2 people great, 3 ~ok but space is a bit tight. The stability is what sells it to me though.
Don't bother with the service until you're ready to put it on a boat and use it though. Just my $.02. Good luck!

Actually neither of them will work with a long shaft with out a bunch of modification. I own a 14' Sorenson and I can say with out doubt it takes a short shaft, like in the 15" range, like the Johnson that's on it. My 9.9 Merc with the 20" shaft is too long. They also don't have the strongest transom in the world and would really benefit from some extra ply, while doing that one could raise the transom up a bit but 10" is a lot.

I have a 12T livingston with a 9.8 Long Shaft Tohatsu, that is the correct motor lenght for my boat and a 14' livingston. The 12T is not on the website anymore but the 14 is. You're right about regular 12' they only require a short shaft. Surprised the 14' Sorensen takes a short, will have to check one out next time i'm there. What problems have you had with the transom? Just curious, would like to learn more about boats. PM me if you're so inclined.

[natewatters]

UPDATE

I followed MotoBoat's advice today - Stopped at Outdoor Emporium for some TCW-3 and some gear oil. Got a couple fresh gallons of fuel, and mixed it up 50:1 (the TC-3, not the gear oil).

Got home and filled the 35 gallon trash can with water and hooked up the fuel. Mounted the motor, pulled out the choke and second pull she fired right up...and died after a few seconds. And then wouldn't start again. Not a bad start, at least there was something.

After several more pulls, I pushed the choke in and it fired up first pull, no problem, and stayed running! Let her run a few minutes, revved gently a few times (no full throttle), and stopped and started a couple of times - first pull every time!

My only question is the choke - Is it normal to not need it? Especially on a cold engine. It actually won't start at all with the choke ON. Seems strange.

Anyhow, I'm stoked it started right up! Now for that pesky boat....

And how much smoke is normal for a 2 stroke? Seems pretty smokey, but I do love that 2 stroke smell

[Bodofish]

If the oil was mixed correctly you should see very minimal smoke. Who knows what was run in it before and how much was left in the system.
If it didn't require any choke to do a cold start, I'd hazard a guess it's running very rich (could be the reason for the smoke).
Before I did anything with the motor, I'd put it on the back of the boat and give it a good run. I suspect it's spent a lot of time idling and running with just a small bit of throttle if it was used as a kicker. They tend to get gooped up.
The other thing to be very careful of is to make sure you run the carb dry before you put it away.

[Bodofish]

If it's not too far I'd take it to Sorensen Marine in White Center for service/inspection, they're a good shop and focus on Nissans and Tohatsus. Then I'd look for used 12-14' Sorensens or Livingstons. A 12T livie or 14' of either will fit that motor pretty well. That set up won't fly across the water but will get you where you're going and be really stable at that size class.
To admit my bias, I have a 12T livie with a 9.8 Tohatsu (purchased from Sorensen's Marine) long shaft and love the set up. Fishes 2 people great, 3 ~ok but space is a bit tight. The stability is what sells it to me though.
Don't bother with the service until you're ready to put it on a boat and use it though. Just my $.02. Good luck!

Actually neither of them will work with a long shaft with out a bunch of modification. I own a 14' Sorenson and I can say with out doubt it takes a short shaft, like in the 15" range, like the Johnson that's on it. My 9.9 Merc with the 20" shaft is too long. They also don't have the strongest transom in the world and would really benefit from some extra ply, while doing that one could raise the transom up a bit but 10" is a lot.

I have a 12T livingston with a 9.8 Long Shaft Tohatsu, that is the correct motor lenght for my boat and a 14' livingston. The 12T is not on the website anymore but the 14 is. You're right about regular 12' they only require a short shaft. Surprised the 14' Sorensen takes a short, will have to check one out next time i'm there. What problems have you had with the transom? Just curious, would like to learn more about boats. PM me if you're so inclined.

No problems with the transom, it just flexes a bit more than I would like. Mine only has a 9.9 on it but it's rated for a 25. A 25 would just be ridiculous. As far as the shaft length goes, you can put any length on them they just hang too far down in the water. Puts added stress on the transom and isn't the most efficient dragging that big fin through the water. The cavitation plate is to be right at the surface with the boat on plane.

[jd39]

Nice, glad to hear it! Probably just flooded it with the choke open, happens with mine if I don't immediately close it after starting it the first time in the AM, doesn't matter how cold the motor is. If I open the choke to restart it later in the day it'll flood too so I've stopped doing that, only the first start. Mine is a 4 stroke so not sure if it's different for a 2 stroke. Good luck with your boat search! Bodofish is right, your motor won't fit a regular 12' livingston. Sorry about that.

[MotoBoat]

Natewaters, Super! Pulled up your boot straps, bought some oil and mixed it in some fresh gas, and the rest is a smokey two stroke memory.....lol! I am glad you did this. Saved some serious coin my friend.

Not being there to see the motor run and die. When starting for the first time, be it morning, day or night. Pull the choke all the way out, couple of pumps on the primer bulb in the fuel line, until the bulb gets hard. Or, if you really listen, each pump can be heard as a light spray sound as the carburetor bowl fills up. That sound will stop when the carb bowl is full, that is when the primer bulb isn't so squishy and firms up.

Now, choke is all the way out, primer bulb pumped till firm, throttle on motor turned to the "start" position. Yank on cord until the motor starts. Usually the motor rpm will rise during the cold start, run higher than idle, but rpm's will tail off and die if the "choke" is not pushed in 1 setting. Most motors will have full choke, another click setting for half throttle, then all the way in for no throttle or warm operation. First click is for cold starts only, once the motor warms ( maybe 30 seconds or less) the rpm will start to fall, at this time click to the half setting, after another short period at half choke, push all the way in for warm operation. With some motors you can go from full choke to no choke, but most will need some choke lever "tweaking" somewhere between full on and off.

On warm summer days you may only need the half choke setting to start when cold. Or if the motor was used to get where your going on the lake, and is shut down for for a while. That is something you get familiar with when it is your motor. If the motor normally starts first or second pull, and it isn't starting. Click the choke "in" to half way, pump the primer bulb or check the throttle setting for the 'start" position. Do something to prevent flooding. Still doesn't start, push choke all the way in. You get the picture.

As far as the smoking goes, I don't get it when people say your 2 stroke shouldn't smoke much. When the motor is cold it is running rich, which means: more fuel than what is necessary to run when warm. The motor is more smokey at that time. Also, when running the 2 stroke in a garbage can, the exhaust gases are contained by the can, at that time the motor is more smokey than normal. When the outside temp is colder, the motor smokes more. If one or more of these condition exist at once, the smokier it will be. They are not called a 2 smoker for nuttin!

An older 2 stroke (does not have the technology of a newer model) idling with 50:1 oil gas mix is way to much oil for idle or warm up speed. The 50:1 oil ratio is what the motor needs at "FULL Throttle", under potentially fully loaded conditions, on a warm humid day, to operate properly. At idle to slow rpm's, the motor will smoke more for the reasons listed above. To much oil for the rpm range. For a older motor it is a safety feature really. Too much oil and gas, is not nearly as bad as too little.

Newer 2 stroke motors regulate the 50:1 oil ratio to 75 or 100:1 when idling. Then, will decrease that ratio (more oil) as the rpm range increases.

Something else not touched upon yet. Smaller motors like yours (trolling size), usually have an external knob that is manually turned. That knob would say "rich" and "lean". Normally found in the front by the pull cord or side of the motor opposite the shift lever. This setting is for "idle" speed only. It is for fine tuning of the motor and is turned in or out until the maximum rpm's is reached during "IDLE" to very low speed operation. When I say low speed, I mean no more rpm than the "shift" throttle position will allow. The setting will have no effect if adjusted during high speed operation. And only cause the motor to run poorly when going from high rpm (fast speed) to low (slow speed) rpm = idle.

While on the subject. Do not shift from "N" (neutral) to "F" (forward) or "R" (reverse) unless the throttle setting is at the "shift" or "idle" speed setting. Gears can be damaged!

Happy boating. Maybe we can race your 9.8 against my 9.9 some day........lol!!

Again, glad you took the initiative, and the motor started for you. There was little doubt from this location that all would go smoooooothly. Now the problem will be to not start the motor whenever you feel like it. It is a good idea really, get to know the cold and warm start up procedure of your motor on land, instead of being frustrated or worse, stranded on the water.

[natewatters]

Thanks, all. I have heard of running the carb dry - sounds like a good idea, but maybe not every time unless storing it for a long period of time? At least that's what the manual seems to say.

MotoBoat, that's a heck of a reply you typed up - I really, really appreciate all the info! Really helpful.

I'm not too worried about the smoke yet. I think I mixed the fuel perfectly - 2.013 gallons of gas to 6 oz. oil. Once I get it out on the water and running for awhile, then we'll see how it goes. Like Bodofish mentioned, I'm anxious to just get it out there and run it around, clear it out a bit.

I"ll start it up again tomorrow and run it through the paces. I left it in the tank of water overnight, I imagine it's fine.

As far as boats go, I've been keep an eye on Craigslist. A lot of good 14 footers out there (aluminum) with trailers for a decent price. Even buying new isn't going to make me go broke necessarily. So far, I'm looking at Lund, Gregor, and SmokerCraft/Starcraft. I'll be up for that race in no time!

[MotoBoat]

Actually burning all gas out of the carb is a very good idea. For one, it becomes habit and is not forgotten or put off until later. Very important because of the 10 percent ethanol in the gas, that stuff is hard on rubber fuel lines and carb gaskets, acts as a solvent inside the carb, scouring it and anything it touches clean. This creates small particles that clog small or-faces and eats away at non ethanol rubber parts. Especially older outboards with non ethanol compatible fuel lines.

The Ethanol in the gas has caused problems with the rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump of my 1979 9.9 outboard. I discovered, when the pump acts up, to turn the diaphragm around in the fuel pump. It runs fine for the entire year or more, then out of nowhere it acts up. Reverse it, and problem fixed. The reason I tried turning the diaphragm around is because it was a brand new, ethanol approved part that acted up shortly after rebuilding the fuel pump!

Loading, does occur with prolonged trolling. But will occur much less, and will get longer life out of spark plugs if one get's familiar with how to properly adjust the slow speed knob. The spark plug is getting wet from unburnt fuel due a "rich" condition (too much fuel) during slow speed operation and unburnt 50:1 oil in the gas. Which also creates excessive carbon build up on the tip of the spark plug. The idle of the motor is affected, and most go on a high speed run around the lake, and resume trolling. The problem is solved for a short time. What is really going on is the spark plug is operating at too cold a temp, and the carbon and fuel continue fowling the plug until it sparks no more!

If you like buying spark plugs at $3-5 or more each. Get one, replace it, motor fixed. Or, clean the spark plug. I have 4 spark plugs, 2 brand new in the box are close to 10 years old, and two old ones. What happened is, I discovered a way to clean a spark plug that is fowled, and return it to brand new function. I troll a bunch. So, I clean the spark plugs after 5 days of trolling 8 hours or more or 10 short trips. During the season, as preventative maintenance, not necessity.

[iwilfish]

what's the method for cleaning the spark plug? can you share it here? how much do you want for it?

[Bodofish]

what's the method for cleaning the spark plug? can you share it here? how much do you want for it?

With modern electronics in the ignition circuit it's a generally recognized practice to just chuck any spark plug that has been removed from the engine. First the crush gasket should only be used once and in addition, cleaning them with compressed air, solvents or abrasives open a big door to lodging any particulate matter between the electrode and the insulator. That is a condition that can not be validated or checked for with a visual inspection and is a problem with the high voltage ignitions. When the use of points went away so did the re-using spark plugs. I would not suggest ever reusing a spark plug. For those that do, all the best luck.