Placement of downriggers

[kokanee_slayer]

So for my "Two Cents Worth" I would say either the 1 or 2 position. Yes, you have increased chances of wrapping a DR cable in the prop particularly when fishing Salt Water with the currents and increased trolling speeds. However, increasing the size of the DR weights reduces the blow back and the chances of fouling a prop. I would much rather have the Downrigger out of the way when fighting a fish.

[natetreat]

I was thinking the same thing. If your rigger can handle a heavier weight, you'd reduce blow back and keep them out of the prop that way. I run mine farther forward in my boat, because it's a pain to get to them if they're so far behind. But with my heavy weight I'm running straight down even at fast speeds.

[Toni]

I was thinking the same thing. If your rigger can handle a heavier weight, you'd reduce blow back and keep them out of the prop that way. I run mine farther forward in my boat, because it's a pain to get to them if they're so far behind. But with my heavy weight I'm running straight down even at fast speeds.

How heavy is yours?

[Bodofish]

I've been running downriggers for many years, probably longer than many have been fishing. I've had them in all of the three positions and without a doubt the best place is as far back as they can go. For those thinking it's the DR cable that gets caught in the kicker, just showing your ignorance of how it works, it's you fish line that gets caught in the kicker. The farther forward you go the longer boom you need. The bigger weight makes no difference either, I used to run 15 and 20 pound balls, no difference, line can still get caught. My current setup is in about the 1.5 area so I have the 6 foot booms to get it out away from the boat, it's the only place I can mount them. The longer the boom, the farther back the clip has to be so it can reach the boat. Without doubt, every time I'm out with them I end up bitching about the placement and then there's the guy that can't seem to net the fish because the downrigger is in the way. AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!! The safety thing just doesn't hold water, there are the Scotty pulls and my favorite, the stick with a hook. No need to ever bend over the side. When I get the TR-1 and don't have to run the kicker, the DR's are moving back!!!! I'll make a leap here and suggest that anyone running downriggers in position 1 or 2 has not owned multiple boats and has never had the downriggers in the #3 position. I have also never seen a guide out on the salt with a downrigger in anyplace but #3. I know a few guides that run sleds on Sammamish use fore and aft Dr's but they are only going a few feet deep and they use the DR's more like a planer board to get the lines out from the side of the boat.

[Bodofish]

Sorry guys, my apologies, I've been a bit crabby lately for an unrelated issue and for that I apologise to everyone, none of you deserve any of it. Sorry.

[BARCHASER10]

A lot of it depends on how you are fishing. If you are fishing off the west Coast of Vanc Island and trolling Tomics at 150 feet at 3mph with lots of blowback regardless how much weight you have, then as put them far back as you can get them or slow down a bunch when you go into a turn. For the standard Puget Sound, Straight deal with flashers/squid/spoons etc, I find the compromise at (2) works well for me.

My Seahawk came stock with a built in metal platform for the DR at (2). I have a transom mount motor and at (3) I'd be standing out on the transom. And yes I have had multiple boats, this is my 4th boat with downriggers.

[Mike Carey]

I was thinking the same thing. If your rigger can handle a heavier weight, you'd reduce blow back and keep them out of the prop that way. I run mine farther forward in my boat, because it's a pain to get to them if they're so far behind. But with my heavy weight I'm running straight down even at fast speeds.

How heavy is yours?

Fishing Shipwreck this fall, even with 12 pound cans, at 3.4 mph and 120 ft down there was a good 30 degree angle on my cables. It also depends on what you have running. Flashers will pull your gear back that much more, especially at the faster trolling speeds. Kokanee fishing, Baker lake sockeye, it's a non-issue.

[Bodofish]

It's still not the DR cables you have to worry about. It's your fishing line thats going to get caught in the kicker. Just use weight that's appropriate for the current and speed. More weight will do nothing for you.

[Mike Carey]

It's still not the DR cables you have to worry about. It's your fishing line thats going to get caught in the kicker. Just use weight that's appropriate for the current and speed. More weight will do nothing for you.

That's true, your cable or DR braid will just be cut off. Had that happen twice on a 16 ft fiberform, Possession Bar, back when I was just learning how to DR fish. Ouch! Learned a lot since then.

[MotoBoat]

It's still not the DR cables you have to worry about. It's your fishing line thats going to get caught in the kicker. Just use weight that's appropriate for the current and speed. More weight will do nothing for you.

Whether it is the combination of short boom length on my downriggers, and 8'-6" salmon rods or something else. With the downriggers in position #2. The fishing line, is "never" what I am worried about tangling with the kicker prop. Not when in a turn, dealing with side current, and or wind. The reason, is more blow back on the fishing line, than the cable for that to occur.

In fact, the fishing line would pass "over" the kicker motor. If a sharp enough starboard turn were to be attempted.

Now, if the downriggers were in position #3, or further forward than that. I could see the fishing line crossing paths with the prop, and the dr cable passing in front of the kicker lower end.

For clarification, the Dr and fishing rod on the same side as the kicker. Is the only set up than one has to worry about finding the rotating prop.

[sickbayer]

I have 4` booms at position 3 on a high deck and I've never really worried about it. Although I do check if I'm making a very tight turn. On a personal level I'd like in position 1 for ease of use { i could sit and look ahead while watching DR} but the reality is closer they're to the back the better it is.

[MotoBoat]

I have 4` booms at position 3 on a high deck and I've never really worried about it. Although I do check if I'm making a very tight turn. On a personal level I'd like in position 1 for ease of use { i could sit and look ahead while watching DR} but the reality is closer they're to the back the better it is.

Is there a negative to leaving the downrigger where it is on your boat. But moving the rod forward, in a rod holder at position #1 for easy viewing?

In effect, the rod is up to 6ft in front, toward the bow, of the D-rigger. Much more even to where your sitting. With this rod/d-rigger scenarios, is it possible for the fishing line to come in contact with the D-rigger cable on a left or right turn, depending on which side your fishing on, and which side your turning?

Another note of mention. Is when fishing solo, for salmon. I use the Downrigger on the opposite side of the boat as the kicker. Then when I have a fish on. I turn the kicker so the boat circles with the downrigger on the outside of the turn. Leaving the obstruction less side of the boat (no downrigger), clear to net the fish.

[Bodofish]

Nope it works really good! I've used extra rod holders for years and in many respects it's easier than using the ones on the downriggers.

[Racer]

Thats the way mine are. The downriggers are at #3 but I have the rods about 5' farther forward. It makes it easier to watch the rod without a stiff neck.

[BARCHASER10]

I have a long shaft T8 kicker. I run a long boom Scotty on the T8 side and a regular boom on the other side both with swivel base. The DRs are not in the way at (2), just swivel the booms back.. plenty room to net. In our red hot silver run this year, one morning 3 of us got a double, got them both and then a triple and got all three!

Plus I run one of these on my T8.

http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search.c ... s&x=10&y=9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Toni]

I think I will have to put them between #1 and #2 because the windows go so far back.

[Mike Carey]

Toni, can you post a few pictures of the back 1/3 of the boat, close-ups? That would help us.

[Toni]

Trent's garage is to full to get a full shot. He had to step into his house to get that picture. Maybe I can when I go to take out the seats.

[afk]

I've fished with them in the second and 3rd positions. 3rd position can be awkward(lots of leaning and reaching). 2nd position was with longer booms and use of stick with a hook. I've never had the luxury of swivel bases but, when seeing them swung out of the way to fight bigger fish they look sweet.
Good luck!

[MarkFromSea]

My $ 0.02, mount them as far aft as you can and still operate them safely and comfortably. Every boat style is a little different. Where the seats are, manual or electric riggers(manual requires consideration of access to crank easier especially on the starboard side) and other stuff already mentioned. Here's an idea: Lay your downriggers out on your garage floor next to the boat, jump on in the boat and assume the approximate position you would be in while operating the downrigger, now, just like a mime, run through the paces of operating the downrigger, retrieving a fish heavy rod, ect.... Look at the downriggers you have for reference as you run through the motions. Sounds a bit silly but if you're concerned someone might see you fighting a pretend fish in your garage with no rod in your hand, shut the garage door and have at it! ;) The farther forward you move the downriggers, the more problems you WILL have with tangling and such while turning too sharply, heavy winds or currents. Tight Lines! Hope it helps.....