Northwest Fishing Reports

Hello all,

I invested in 2 gold star rudder flashers today. I got both a yellow and green double glow, spatter back. Anybody have an opinion on these or any experience? Just wondering if they're worth it? Also, if you've used them before how did you rig them with your gear.

They will be used primarily for migrating kings and coho.

Thanks…For Reel

I have several on my boat. I don't use them anymore, though. They are nice for keeping your downrigger clip from spinning up on you before your drop down, and also offer something to grab easily before deploying gear.... but I have one bad experience with them that really turned me away....

It was 2 seasons ago and we were fishing the Bellingham derby, running the rudders as we always do, and we couldn't seem to get a fish to bite.... others around us were doing well, and we were fishing the same gear I always run in the islands in the same locations that alwasy produce. After being skunked on day one and going into day 2 discouraged, I thought "why the hell not" and removed the rudder from the downrigger line. No sooner than I did that we started getting takedowns consistently. We then switched the other side out as well and removed the rudder.... Fish on!

Don't know why by the fish WOULD NOT hit our setups if the rudders were attached. Since that day 2 seasons ago the rudders have stayed in stowage down in the berth.... Not planning to break them out any time soon.

^ Im with Matt on this one. I have noticed less success with using thing vs. using just an inline flasher. I first though it was because my Stainless cable was putting off a charge, the fish would get close to the flasher then the charge would put them off bite. But even when I switched to braid I noticed less bites on the rigger.

Good point. Just FYI, my experience was running 200lb Cortland braid.

Matt wrote:I have several on my boat. I don't use them anymore, though. They are nice for keeping your downrigger clip from spinning up on you before your drop down, and also offer something to grab easily before deploying gear.... but I have one bad experience with them that really turned me away....

It was 2 seasons ago and we were fishing the Bellingham derby, running the rudders as we always do, and we couldn't seem to get a fish to bite.... others around us were doing well, and we were fishing the same gear I always run in the islands in the same locations that alwasy produce. After being skunked on day one and going into day 2 discouraged, I thought "why the hell not" and removed the rudder from the downrigger line. No sooner than I did that we started getting takedowns consistently. We then switched the other side out as well and removed the rudder.... Fish on!

Don't know why by the fish WOULD NOT hit our setups if the rudders were attached. Since that day 2 seasons ago the rudders have stayed in stowage down in the berth.... Not planning to break them out any time soon.

Thank you for the sharing your knowledge on this topic. Just a question for you…Did you run rudder and flasher or just rudder when you had you bad luck streak?

Steelheadin360 wrote:^ Im with Matt on this one. I have noticed less success with using thing vs. using just an inline flasher. I first though it was because my Stainless cable was putting off a charge, the fish would get close to the flasher then the charge would put them off bite. But even when I switched to braid I noticed less bites on the rigger.

Have you ever tried using the rudder and flasher combo? Thanks!

As usual in most things, there are different opinions and some people like them

http://www.theoutdoorline.com/forum/vie ... p?f=7&t=21" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

We ran the rudder to the downrigger ball and ran the flasher.

I have fished a ton with them in Area 9/central sound and pounded Chinook and Coho both while using them (always used in tandem with a flasher unless running a plug, or bait) but for some reason they were a real limiter in the San Juan's....

Because of that, I don't even risk it anymore.

In regards to Nelly's post on the outdoor line forum... The snubber on your downrigger serves 2 purposes OTHER than helping avoid hangups. (1) if you're running steel cable, it can terminate electrolysis down to the ball by adding a disconnect between the steel and your downrigger ball and (2) it dampens vibrations (and or noise) created by your cable through the water.

Both of these are more of an issue when running steel. No electrolosis concerns running braid, and braid also doesn't really "Sing" in the water.

My vote? Run braid, to a snubber, to your ball. Forget the rudder. Also, as stated in the other post, those things are expensive. If/when you hang up on the bottom you're going to lose a 15$ Rudder, 15$ snubber, 25$ Downrigger ball, 10$ release clip, and all of the terminal tackle holding the whole thing together.... not to mention if you lose your 14$ flasher and 6$ kingfisher spoon. There goes 90$ right down the crapper.... heaven forbid you do it on BOTH sides simultaneously.....

Matt wrote:In regards to Nelly's post on the outdoor line forum... The snubber on your downrigger serves 2 purposes OTHER than helping avoid hangups. (1) if you're running steel cable, it can terminate electrolysis down to the ball by adding a disconnect between the steel and your downrigger ball and (2) it dampens vibrations (and or noise) created by your cable through the water.

Both of these are more of an issue when running steel. No electrolosis concerns running braid, and braid also doesn't really "Sing" in the water.

My vote? Run braid, to a snubber, to your ball. Forget the rudder. Also, as stated in the other post, those things are expensive. If/when you hang up on the bottom you're going to lose a 15$ Rudder, 15$ snubber, 25$ Downrigger ball, 10$ release clip, and all of the terminal tackle holding the whole thing together.... not to mention if you lose your 14$ flasher and 6$ kingfisher spoon. There goes 90$ right down the crapper.... heaven forbid you do it on BOTH sides simultaneously.....

Thanks again Matt! Just a quick question…What kind of braid/test do you use on your DR's. I've considered changing over to the braid in the past...

I run 200 lb Cortland braid that I get from John's. He sells bulk spools for 99$. It's a great deal, just keep the spool on board in case of emergency, you can respool your whole DR in about 10 minutes.

Every charter in puget sound runs these rudder flashers and stainless cable with a black box or cannon down riggers. They know best sense there out there everyday. Just my 2c