Northwest Fishing Reports

Started reading some of the post yesterday and there seems to be some knowledgeable folks on this site.
Have a question on max timing. What is the difference between max cranking and WOT timing? Which one would do you use when static timing setting without plugs installed? I know to drop it down 4 degrees due to no load and all that but there is two timing settings in the book. Thanks

I would guess, and it is only a guess, max cranking would be spinning it over with the starter and Wide Open Throttle would be with the throttle wide open and the timing plate would be at the full adjustment specified by the manual.
That said, where did you get the 4 degree 'no load' timing change? I have not used that before. The outboards I have worked on were set with the engine not running but using the marks on the flywheel. Course, thr newest Merc (Mariner) I have worked on is a 2001.

What specific Mercury engine you are working with (yes it matters)? What book are you using?

Thanks for responding. The book is a seloc and motor is a 60 horse 3 cylinder 2 stroke. This model is what they call a bigfoot. I'll add somemore off the I'd plate today since I will be working on it.

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As far as adjusting the max timing down here is a video on doing a static timing and he states to drop it 2 degrees. True not 4 but but do need to drop it down or you will burn the piston up over time. By dropping down more your only loosing some power but better safe than sorry. I'm going with the cranking spec which is lower to start with in the book and drop it down to 20 degrees for max timing.

Pretty much what I was thinking. The book better be specific to the OB too. I've found generalizations do nothing but get you in trouble. Certainly wouldn't want a hard back fire and a slipped sleeve................

OB? Sorry drawing a blank on that abbreviation. Do you mean outboard

Yatabata wrote:OB? Sorry drawing a blank on that abbreviation. Do you mean outboard

yes, Out Board.

Yes the specs are for my outbd. Just going through checking everything plus to learn everything about this engine. After this season going to remove the powerhead to do a total cleaning and replace anything while I'm at it in my garage. Good next winter project.

And yet, we are still waiting for the exact OB you are working on and the book you are using for the specifications. In your first post you talk about static timing and you link to a YouTube video showing anything but "static timing". If you are looking for a specific answer, you need to be very specific about the question you are asking. Most on here are more than willing to help but the days OMC, IMC and Merc being the only source of strap on power for boats is long gone. Now even within manufactures there are huge differences is specs from model to model and even several sets during a year or manufacturing cycle. Being specific is a must.

Bodofish wrote:And yet, we are still waiting for the exact OB you are working on and the book you are using for the specifications. In your first post you talk about static timing and you link to a YouTube video showing anything but "static timing". If you are looking for a specific answer, you need to be very specific about the question you are asking. Most on here are more than willing to help but the days OMC, IMC and Merc being the only source of strap on power for boats is long gone. Now even within manufactures there are huge differences is specs from model to model and even several sets during a year or manufacturing cycle. Being specific is a must.

Absolutely spot on.

All we know is you have a Merc 60hp 2 stroke, 3cyl and you're using an aftermarket Seloc manual. My advice is you get the genuine Mercury service manual specific to your engine's serial number - it matters. You're delving into what's known as timing and synchronization aka "sync and link", get it wrong and you could destroy the engine.

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So here is some info I scraped together with the air box cover with tuning settings, motor I.D. decal, and section of specs in the aftermarket book which matches the air box cover. I believe I'm on the right track with this info. Thanks

Then why are you diviating from the manual because a 'youtube' video says to alter the timing method in the manual? By the questions you have asked it leads me to believe you do not have much experience in such things or you are just screwing with people who do?

So you are saying then when timing this motor no adustment is required with or without plugs in stalled?

Without looking at the manual I can not tell you what procedure you are supposed to follow. The timing is a set value that is established when they engineered the engine. Unless the manual specifies checking the timing with the engine running it is probably set static (non running) or cranking, plugs in or plugs out. Usually the throttle linkage is linked to the timing plate and is a simple direct mechanical advance. Make sure you ground the plug wires if you spin it over with the plugs out or you can damage the EEC (electronic engine control) box.
The key here is what others have said. Follow the manual for your EXACT engine. Sometimes even the numbers or letters behind or in front of the engine model can make a difference. Don't 'guess' with the oil mix, advance or air leaks or you will end up with a burned up or blown up two stroke. Make sure you are pumping good water too.

Thanks for a professional answer to my question. I rather get annoyed when these forums treat guess bad. But I figured if I didn't blowup and just keep to my question I would eventually get somewhere. Yes I do know about groùnding the plug wires and have done this with no problems. You have convinced me to buy the service manual for this specific motor not only for this but for all of it. I plan on removing the powerhead next fall to replace the steering link fitting. It's pretty rusted up and hard to get to. It will be a good project for next fall in my garage. Thanks again for your support.

The OE Mercury manual won't have all those other engines listed, just those manufactured within a specific serial number range covered by the manual, in your case engine serial number range 0G290585 - 0G589999. All you need do is write down the serial number (starts with 0Gxxxxxx) from the tag in your first picture and take that to any Mercury authorized dealer. If they don't have a manual in stock they may be able to order one for you if still available. Since your engine is 20yrs old (manufactured in 1996) the service manual may be out of print.


Post back here if you run into a dead end on the manual, I have a few connections that might be able to find one.

Just to mention it, you MAY find your aftermarket manual to have the same information as the manufacturers. Maybe. The devil is in the details. Most aftermarket manuals skip steps and or leave stuff out which may be fine if you have a lot of experience but may spell disaster otherwise. Best of luck with your project!

I might add if you ask nice at the Merc dealer / service center they may even give you the timing specs or all of them for that matter. They are nice to have. =)
1996 is new enough that you would need something horribly wrong with the engine to have occurred before the timing is going to be off. I'm also going to toss out that unless you're planning on tearing it down to the case and doing a total rebuild, IMO there is no need to mess with the timing, ever. Well maybe taking off all the throttle stuff off too but you know what I mean. It's not a '62 chevy, you don't need to do the timing for a tune up.
If you're really stuck on checking the timing, don't forget to pick up a new set of plugs. Once the crush washer has done it's thing, it's time for a new set. Old ones come out and new ones go in. Never deviate from that.
Nor would I take off the power head just to clean things up. That's doing nothing but inviting trouble. If you think the exhaust system is dirty, take it out with the cover off and spray in the Merc cleaner or Seafoam.
My most heart felt recommendation is don't take anything apart unless there is a real physical need, AKA something is broken. It's assembled at the factory by trained technicians and QA checked along the assembly line. You could be the most gifted mechanic in the world and it's still not going to go back together like it was off the assembly line.
When and if you ever decide it needs a rebuild, buy a completed powerhead with a warranty and send them your old one. By the time you get all the parts together and get going on the project, you'll wish you had from a monetary, time and frustration stand point.
Best of luck with your project.

Thanks for your responses. Yes I agree if not broke don't fix it but this motor was given to me and running horrible. I checked everything and all good except the timing was way off. Not bad enough to backfire which is good. Going to reset it today, shoot some 2 stroke spray in the cylinders and carbs. Hook up fresh fuel auxiliary tank with the new bulb hose. Will get back to you all on how it goes.