clear drift flots

[gsus32]

So I've tried the clear drifting floats, and every time I use them I feel like I'm not setting my depth right because I can't tell how the float is moving since I can only see the Orange top. Has anyone else had issues with that? Any way to help out with that? I like the idea behind the clear float but don't want to miss out on fish due to no have a good presentation under the bobber

[BentRod]

The simple answer is to either decrease the amount of weight under the float or step up your float to the next rating in order for the float to ride a little higher in the water, but not so much that it tilts or lays over, allowing you to see subtle changes more easily. However, let's start with the basics. What is your float setup? Is your jig the only weight under the float or do you run the more typical inline weight between your float followed by a leader and jig? Additionally, how experienced with float fishing are you? The best way to figure out float characteristics is having the jig or terminal offering be your only weight. Of course that makes for an extremely light offering in most cases and can be difficult to cast the needed distances. Leading to the inline weight below the float to give that extra casting distance. The problem with this setup is that that additional weight will keep the float riding upright when the terminal offering may be hitting bottom or swinging up in the current preventing the angler from correctly reading the float. If you're experienced than the subtle changes can be seen, but are more difficult to interpret.
Now getting back to your problem, if you're familiar with the inline weight setup and feel you can acurately read float behavior then I'd do as I previously suggested (decrease weight or increase float size) until you get a feel for reading the behavior of the clear drift floats. Once you are comfortable then you might increase the weight until this rides lower in the water. The subtle signs will still be there and harder to see, but you should still be able to recognize them.
In the event your terminal tackle is the only weight under the float, then you most likely wouldn't be having a problem.
Long winded, but hope that helps.

[gsus32]

I like to fish bobber with split shots the amount very depending on the size of the float usually a 3/8 or 1/2 oz I've always used bue Mac floats I'll try using a 1/2 clear drift with the amount of weight I would use for a 3/8 to see if that gives me the extra visibility I need

[Gringo Pescador]

I use the clear torpedo style. Not for the reason you describe (I use em because the torpedos ride higher in the water making them easier for me to see) but being longer and skinny they solve that issue as well. I also have this thoery that the skinny torpedo style floats go down easier causing less resistance when the fish hits but I have no idea if that is actually the case.

[Mike Carey]

If your jig is dragging it should be pretty obvious. Keep your rof tip high, line off the water so no drag, should float nice and straight up, use like a 1/4 to 3/4 oz weight below the float. Watch this video for set up tip:http://www.washingtonlakes.com/WatchVideoHD.aspx?id=208

[TyeeMatt]

I switched to Drennan floats a couple years ago and have never looked back. They come in three "shades" of clear (brownish, greenish, and true clear) and are a torpedo style float that, like Gringo said, seem to offer less resistance to take downs than the wider cleardrift float style. They are really expensive, but pretty sturdy if you are careful with them. Don't cast them against rocks or accidentally step on them while you do your "I just caught a steelhead!" dance on the bank. I agree that the ideal float set-up uses only the weight of your terminal offering, but will usually add split shot in a spacing pattern that depends on the speed of the water I'm fishing. The faster the water, the tighter I'll bunch the split shot so that my jig gets down faster. Raven makes micro-split shot that is much smaller than the Danielson split shot you normally see in tackle shops in the PNW, but you'll likely have to order in online as I rarely see it in stores. Whatever brand you use, make sure that the shot is rounded and not the removable kind, which adds drag to your presentation. They also make micro-swivels that I use as well and that are rated more than strong enough to keep any steelhead or salmon you'll be hooking on the line. The Drennan floats are rated in grams (I use the 11g size) and come in a variety of styles (I use the Piker model). If you really want to nerd out you can get a kitchen scale and start weighing you jigs and leaders to get them matched up with the gram rating on your float. I did this when I started using the Drennans because the jigs I tie use beads that can vary in weight and it helped me get my floats at a good level on the water. Another option is weighted floats like the ones that Aero makes. Those will help you avoid using inline weights to get your float sitting properly.

[schu7498]

The cleardrift design makes it hard to read your float. I tend to not use them if im floating bait or jigs. But they are a great float if you are using beads or bobber dogging. I hated the old hard plastic cleardrift floats, but the new ones are made of a softer plastic and they can take abuse! Love them now!

[denhambruce]

Use the 20g clear drift float with a 1/2 oz sinker below it. I fiddled around for awhile trying to find the right bobber with weight and that's what I came up with. It sits right to where the red is about half an inch above the water and the 1/2 oz keeps it very stable

[4steelhead]

I tried clear drift floats last week with the skinny water and had the same problem. I noticed 2 things, 1. Bentrod is correct. Try to add ad as little extra weight as possible. 2. Cleardtift floats come in two styles, normal and "skinny" torpedo. Try downsizing to a "skinny" lighter float. I've also seen people add a corkie on top of the float for better visibility. p.s. I am stil trying to figure this problem out too.

[Gringo Pescador]

I switched to Drennan floats a couple years ago and have never looked back. They come in three "shades" of clear (brownish, greenish, and true clear) and are a torpedo style float that, like Gringo said, seem to offer less resistance to take downs than the wider cleardrift float style. They are really expensive, but pretty sturdy if you are careful with them.

TyeeMatt - FYI Both Beau Mac and Cleardrift now make the torpedo shaped clear floats, and both cost less than Drennan. I have ordered but not tried the Cleardrifts yet but the Beau Macs work well.

[gsus32]

I was going to experiment today , but I couldn't bring myself to change the setup that was working

[3footvis]

So I've tried the clear drifting floats, and every time I use them I feel like I'm not setting my depth right because I can't tell how the float is moving since I can only see the Orange top. Has anyone else had issues with that? Any way to help out with that? I like the idea behind the clear float but don't want to miss out on fish due to no have a good presentation under the bobber

Try sticking a toothpick in the top if the water is shallow enough to go fixed... It would be nice if the clear floats had a little nub on top like the foam beau mac floats.